Journey through time and place

Jenny Golding found a rich vein of history amid the beauty of Cape York Peninsula

Australia is indeed beautiful; a trip this year with Australia's Outback Spirit Tours from Cairns to the tip of Cape York and the Torres Strait Islands was simply magic.

My husband Graham and I were among 17 passengers on a 4WD Mercedes-Benz coach with driver Fish and tour director Kelly. We learnt so much about the land, the original inhabitants, the explorers and the tiny settlements and the people who have shaped the development of the cape.

Heading north from Cairns, we took morning tea in a park in Port Douglas. Cake, biscuits and hot water instantly appeared from the depths of the coach in what became a daily ritual.

Passengers on the Australia's Outback Spirit Tours trip from Cairns to the Torres Strait Islands.

Later in the morning we were croc-spotting on the Daintree River. Colourful low-flying birds and trees hugging the river banks brought their own peace.

Daintree reputedly has the oldest rainforest in the world and to be among the tangle of roots under the forest canopy listening to the natural history of the plants and animals was awe-inspiring.

Evening found us, umbrellas in hand under persistently heavy rain, "on the Turps". What else would one call a Daintree heritage lodge on Turpentine Road? The sound of the rain on metal rooftops, the company and the food made for a memorable evening.

Winding, tree-lined roads led us, the following day, to The Lion's Den and lunch at one of Queensland's oldest operating pubs.

Historical Cooktown is known for the beaching of Captain Cook's Endeavour in 1770. The old cemetery and the museum in the magnificent old convent school were fascinating.

James Cook Museum in Cooktown.

There was more history near the small town of Laura, where we learnt of the early gold discoveries which encouraged thousands to come from far and wide in the 1870s.

We travelled along Battle Camp Road and spent time at the abandoned Old Laura Homestead, established to provide meat and vegetables for hungry miners.

In Quinkan Country, we had an indigenous elder explain the cave art to us. The cave drawings are at least 15,000 years old and listed by UNESCO. Seeing and hearing about them was an exceptional experience.

Through grassy plains and woodland and over rivers we went, seeing a crocodile on one creek crossing.

Picturesque Lotusbird Lodge was our accommodation for two nights. The chalets, each with a veranda, were set around a stunning lagoon filled with waterlilies and home to birds.

We enjoyed the walks, talks, birds and dogs and were fascinated by work trying to re-establish the Gouldian finch, once widespread in the area. Breeding pairs, bought from private breeders, are successfully bringing babies into the world.

Peninsula Development Road took us to Arthur River Roadhouse and arguably the best steak burgers ever. Waistlines were indeed expanding.

In Weipa, on the Gulf of Carpentaria, we were in awe of the huge trucks met on an inspection of Rio Tinto's bauxite mine.

Moreton Telegraph Station on the Wenlock River was established as a repeater station on the early overland telegraph line. It now caters for travellers wanting ensuite or campsite accommodation; pizzas served under the stars were a treat.

We crossed the Jardine River on a vehicular ferry and in Bamaga shared our bungalow with a giant green frog which, fortunately, was happy to laze on veranda railings.

A very relaxed green frog.

The day we finally made it to the very tip of Australia was special; we clambered over rocks and held the post proclaiming Australia's most northerly point.

A ferry took us to Thursday Island. Azure water surrounds the islands in the strait and we learnt of the crayfishing industry, visited the gun fort and were also told of the brave islanders who had fought in World War II.

The Gab Titui Cultural Centre, which holds historical artefacts and contemporary indigenous art, was most impressive.

Our final day was spent on Horn Island, touted as the second most attacked part of Australia during the war. A local family has established a private museum, curated by Kathryn Seeker, who explained the role Australians and Americans played in keeping the country safe from possible Japanese invasion.

It was from Horn Island's runway, engineered during the war, that we flew back to Cairns, impressed indeed by the Cape and its crown of islands.