The lure of a frozen wonderland
Let's get my guilty secret out of the way: I am on board Crystal Symphony sailing north to Alaska but I am not an Alaskan cruise virgin.
I was on a small expedition ship to this pristine frontier a few years back and was so captivated by the experience that I had to come again.
Related: GUIDE TO CANADA AND ALASKA
For scenic Alaska was all I expected it to be, from remote wilderness to stunning seascapes, to close encounters with wildlife, glacial wonders, and snow-capped peaks. Truly, a natural beauty.
I will keep my guilty secret from passengers on Crystal Symphony because many are Alaskan first-timers who will learn from well-informed experts on board about the 49th State of the US - the largest by area, but least densely populated with roughly 700,000 permanent residents.
With so much happening on board I plan to treat Crystal Symphony as a holiday resort and discover why Crystal Cruises is repeatedly rated the best large ship cruise line afloat.
So how do my Alaskan cruise days pan out?
Boarding/Day 1
Early afternoon at San Francisco's cruise terminal with time to check out my stateroom, explore Crystal Symphony from forward to aft, and unpack before mandatory lifeboat drill and a sailing away party. Nothing beats sipping champers while cruising under the iconic orange spans of the Golden Gate Bridge. Dinner in the silver service Crystal Restaurant is the time to make new friends from around the world. We will share a table and anecdotes after onshore excursions most nights.
Day 2
At sea en route to Victoria on Canada's Vancouver Island and extra busy - 8am yoga class with Anita from Florida who is a great advertisement for the art with her lean, supple body; then a class with Dr Martin and Emily Lee, originally from China, who have practised tai chi for almost five decades. A health and beauty talk offers pointers on how women can look years younger, but means I have to miss a pilates class.
An Asian-themed lunch is followed by a trivia contest and lessons from a golf pro before an introductory talk on Alaska.
Afternoon tea, the captain's cocktail party, a formal dinner, and a slick Broadway show mean I drop into bed exhausted.
Day 3
I sleep late as we sail into Victoria. The theme of this cruise, Mind, Body and Spirit, appeals to many passengers intent on learning more about a healthy lifestyle. After lunch in the bistro I catch the ship's shuttle to downtown Victoria with a real sense of deja vu from my previous cruise.
We are not yet in Alaska but passengers are already buying jackets decorated with bears, bald eagles, and moose. I am tempted by high tea amid the red velvet and flora chintz decor of Victoria's legendary Fairmont Empress Hotel but decide afternoon tea on Crystal Symphony is just as grand. Overnight we sail into Vancouver, still in Canada.
Day 4
Snow covers the peaks circling the city as we explore downtown and I already feel closer to Alaska's white wonderland. Crystal Symphony is one of the season's early cruise ships heading north, but by peak season in July many small towns in Alaska with populations of about 1000 will see many thousands of cruise ship passengers.
Day 5
A day at sea, again packed with activities. The lunch buffet showcases the skills of Symphony's culinary team with ice sculptures and food creations that look far too good to eat, but we do. The afternoon offers Latin dance classes, computer lessons and language classes, while a recent movie plays in the Hollywood Theatre, with fitness classes, including Nordic pole walking, also on offer.
Day 6
Crystal Symphony has arrived at its first Alaskan port, Sitka, and the view from my balcony reminds me why Alaska is such a stunning drawcard for cruise ships.
The sun shines, the ocean glistens and the pine-covered peaks are capped by sparkling snow. I head into Sitka, and dine on board that night at Silk Road for Asian cuisine by international chef Nobu Matsuhisa where I salivate over melt-in-the-mouth black cod.
Day 7
We are in Juneau, Alaska's remote capital, and after a walk around town, go back on board to the feng shui-inspired spa with steam room and sauna (free for all guests) before Singaporean Hari, who is Gold Coast-trained, gives me deep tissue massage.
I skip classes for the rest of the day and settle on a siesta before a relaxing swim and soak in a warm jacuzzi. The evening ends on a cultural high with a performance by members of the San Francisco Ballet.
Day 8
Arrive in Skagway, a friendly town with the look of a turn-of- the-century film set, then back to my home away from home for a stretch class (free) with South African Denis who gives me a half-hour consultation (at extra cost) on exercises to relieve stress.
Day 9
Now in stunning Glacier Bay and Crystal Symphony is face to face with a massive glacier that really is icy blue and glitters like a precious jewel. The area is a protected National Park and rangers give us a greater understanding of the magical landscape.
Their seasoned eyes spot a moose struggling through snow, a bear ambling beside the water, seals on ice floes, and a wealth of birds including a bald eagle with a giant wing span. The highlight is watching fingers of ice calve (fall) off the main glacier in resounding explosions.
Day 10
Final port is Ketchikan where shopping for last-minute gifts is high on many lists. I start the day with a stretch class then tai chi before a quick walk around the town, then back to Crystal Symphony for afternoon tea with a Mozart theme as waiters in Viennese costumes of yesteryear serve pastries and apple strudel. Dinner is at the Italian-themed Prego restaurant.
Day 11
At sea, sailing back to San Francisco and so many activities still to be fitted in. Eyes often focus on the water as whales breach and a huge pod of porpoises cavort in Crystal's wake.
Dinner is an indulgence at the Sushi Bar before checking out the onboard shops with eye- catching fashion and jewellery.
Day 12
Final day at sea, taking classes, swapping email addresses with new friends, repacking the suitcase that has hidden under the bed since the start of the cruise.
Day 13
Arrive in San Francisco early morning, lighter from all that physical activity, and feeling fit and relaxed.
