New Norcia in the big league

Picture: Iain Gillespie

While New Norcia was celebrating the bicentenary of the birth of its founder, Dom Rosendo Salvado, another March milestone slipped by almost unnoticed.

It was 21 years ago in March that Kingsley Sullivan, founder of New Norcia Bakeries, produced his first bread for sale from the Benedictine community.

Mr Sullivan chanced upon the monks' century-old wood-fired oven while visiting the town, 135km north of Perth.

The 4x3m oven was originally used to help feed the monks and locals but it hadn't been used for a couple of years. Mr Sullivan persuaded the Benedictine Community to lease it to him so he could make sourdough bread.

New Norcia Bakeries was off and running.

"The monks let him use the oven as long as he baked bread for them as well," said Rizza White, New Norcia Bakeries' business development manager. "He would drive to New Norcia and back daily to deliver the bread to Perth."

In the end, such logistics were unsustainable and Mr Sullivan switched the majority of his baking to Perth three years later after discovering premises in Mt Hawthorn with a similar wood-fired oven.

Several years ago, with the business growing rapidly and expanding its product range, bread production was shifted again - to Malaga where a modern German- made electric oven produces similar results. It's in Malaga where French-born baker Alain Fourrier oversees half a dozen bakers, while five pastry chefs still work out of Mt Hawthorn.

Today, New Norcia Bakeries supplements its original sourdough bread with other bakery lines, including yeasted breads, almond biscotti, and a nut cake that is sold far and wide - to top outlets in London shops such as Harvey Nichols and Selfridges, as well as stores in Asia.

New Norcia Bakeries also sells to David Jones, Qantas and Singapore Airlines. And it has a loyal customer in Dampier who gets a dozen loaves flown up every month.

"We box it up, send it by air and he freezes it - it makes it expensive but it's worth it," Ms White said.

The Mt Hawthorn premises now house a cafe and five pastry chefs. There is a "micro shop" in Subiaco and Ms White hinted at new outlets in Perth opening soon.

But while New Norcia Bakeries continues to grow, it retains links with its origins. Indeed, the culture it uses to make sourdough breads dates back to when Mr Sullivan started his business.

The culture celebrates its 25th birthday next month. "It's breathing, it's living and every day we keep adding to it," Ms White said.

Mr Sullivan sold his business a few years ago to Mias Bakery but its link with the Benedictine Community in New Norcia remains. As for the monks' original oven, that is still used today by four bakers who make bread for the locals and visitors, as well as other bakery products.

New Norcia Bakeries joined forces with Buy West Eat Best a couple of years ago.

"It's great to be a passenger of WA branding," Ms White said.

"It helps us keep up to date with ways to participate in festivals and new ways to promote New Norcia Bakeries."

It's great to be a passenger of WA branding. Rizza White