Hotham's high-end cuisine

Australian ski resorts can no longer fool punters with excuses about poor mountain cuisine - because Hotham Alpine Resort is bucking the trend.

Thigh-burning, mountain-carving boarders and skiers don't have to put up with overpriced meat pies, scrappy plates of nachos and tubs of chips with tomato sauce anymore.

Hotham is lifting the Aussie resort food game, proving you don't have to forgo a delicious meal on the slopes.

The White Room is one example of a mountain restaurant with city sophistication, with chef Tristan Keene placing a strong focus on regional produce.

"We source local suppliers and look at their produce, then try to put together a menu that not only is based off the local ingredients but also showcases those ingredients in the best possible way," Tristan says.

"We have a great relationship with our local suppliers and are constantly communicating with them to find the best produce, which is reflected on our menus."

The White Room menu features smoked trout from Harrietville, butter from Myrtleford, cornbread and cheese from Milawa, grass-fed rib eye from Hopkins River, and even cumquats from the waiter's own backyard.

I head there for dinner and pick a few small plates to try. The serving of roasted carrots, chermoula yoghurt, cumquat marmalade and mint ($13) is my favourite.

But my other two choices are also delicious. One is a plate of oversized chickpea and parmesan chips with Kewpie (Japanese mayonnaise) and rosemary smoked salt ($12). The other dish is made up of crunchy smoked lamb croquettes with cumin labne, pickled grapes and curry granola ($16).

Although full, a dessert catches my eye - a Jar of S'mores: ginger biscuit, milk chocolate, marshmallow meringue and cherry jam ($12). With the first mouthful I'm transported to the slopes of Canada and can't think of a better way to wrap up my meal.

The White Room is a great spot for apres too, as the staff will whip you up a clever cocktail combo as you watch the flakes fall outside.

The Ol' Skool Lemonade is refreshingly zingy and made from vodka, elderflower and old fashioned lemonade ($50 for a one-litre jug).

For something a tad more different, try the Quapple Qwumble, made from spiced quince, Zubrowka (vodka), ginger liqueur, Fireball (cinnamon whisky), apple, and a white chocolate and gingerbread crumble ($21). It tastes like a Christmas mince pie.

If the prices seem a bit steep, take advantage of the cocktail happy "hour", where the cost of a Qwumble and other alcoholic delights drops to $15 between 3-6pm.

The White Room isn't Hotham's only fine dining star - the same sophistication can be found at Sola Copa in the Vail-style village of Dinner Plain, just down the road.

This unassuming nook specialises in sharing plates, such as duck and Pyrenees cheese croquetas with batata (potato) preserve; and grilled Gippsland black angus scotch fillet with a pistachio salad, chipotle and chimichurri.

The large serving of rich tomatoes, creamy burrata cheese, basil and olive oil proves you can get fresh produce in the Victorian Alps, and I go back for thirds until the cheese is all gone.

The star dish, however, is the Harrietville trout with crab ceviche and charred corn salsa. If only I had room for more.

Sola Copa is also a cosy spot for a cocktail, with the barman mixing a nice whisky sour and apres gluhwein.

Laurel Anderson and her partner, Adam Ashley, are the owners of Sola Copa, which opened in March 2013.

The menu, which Laurel describes as South American/Mediterranean-influenced tapas, is courtesy of Argentinian executive chef Pablo De Pasquale.

"Brought up by a traditional Hispano Argentinian-Italian family, he learnt the values of fresh seasonal produce that his mother and nonna predicated," says Laurel.

Pablo's passion and focus translates to the kitchen, with logistics playing a major role in delivering a Sola Copa menu based on quality, fresh ingredients, says Laurel.

"We have a fantastic region for food and wine, so it is easy to serve high-end cuisine here in Dinner Plain," she adds.

"I think people are pleasantly surprised by the quality of food being delivered here in the mountains (but) the standard of mountain food improved a long time ago. We are now wowing people."

If this all sounds a tad fancy, head to Arco Ski Lodge, where you'll feel as if you've arrived in Bavaria. The meals are still top quality but it's a more low-key German bier hall affair.

The crispy pork knuckle ($38.50) will give you the energy you need to hit the slopes post lunch, although the large steins of beer may convince you to untie your riding boots and settle in for a lazy afternoon.

Other dishes include Hungarian beef goulasch ($30.50), bratwurst ($28.50), pork schnitzel ($30.50) and even apfelstrudel ($13.50), and the portions are large.

The traditional styling creates a quintessential alps ambience and inspires one to order gluhwein or schnapps.

The long timber tables and bench seats also makes Arcos perfect for large groups.

The only other ski resort to match Hotham's dining scene is the European-styled Thredbo in NSW, with its numerous village restaurants and bars.

With Australians' palettes becoming more refined, it'd be wise for other resorts to take note.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Qantas, Virgin and Rex fly to Albury Airport in southern NSW. Hotham Alpine Resort is about 2.5 hours from Albury.

Alpine Spirit Coaches and sister company Snowball Express run bus and private transfers from the airport to the resort.

Transfers from Albury to Hotham on the Snowball Express scheduled coach cost from $60 per person and to hire the private shuttle it's $500. For details, call 1300 65 65 46 go to alpinespiritcoaches.com.au.

STAYING THERE: There is plenty of on-snow accommodation at Hotham, including Sambuca Apartments, not far from the main chairlift (The Village) and Hotham Central. The apartments have two bedrooms that sleep six, two en suite bathrooms, a lounge with fireplace and a kitchen. A two-night stay costs $1744.

PLAYING THERE: The White Room at Hotham Central is open for lunch from 12pm, apres from 3pm and dinner from 6pm. Reservations are required; phone (03) 5759 3456.

Sola Copa Tapas and Wine Bar is open Thurs-Tues, with apres from 4pm and dinner from 6pm; call 0403 207 824. Sola Copa offers a free transfer from Dinner Plain to Hotham for diners.

Arco Ski Lodge is open seven days, from 11am `til late; phone (03) 5759 3941 or visit arcoskilodge.com.au.

The 2014 snow season closes at Hotham on September 28. For more about the resort, visit mthotham.com.au.

• The writer travelled as a guest of Hotham Skiing Company