Lower the pace on NZ's South Island

There are people among us that take a decidedly dangerous approach to life.

Thrill-seekers. Extreme sports-folk. Mountain climbers, bungy jumpers and downhill skiers.

For these types, when the mercury drops, New Zealand's South Island shines bright for all things adventurous.

But while Queenstown serves as a centre for those rushing to the end of their term, there's plenty around the bends and hills of Lake Wakatipu to delight those with a more placid palate.

Nestled in the hills north of Queenstown, Victorian-era Arrowtown is a great place to start.

First settled as a gold rush town in the 1860s, your first impressions of Arrowtown are likely to hail from the 19th century.

Hundreds of trees - sycamores, elms and oaks - line the town's streets and hills. Planted by the town's first citizens, their stunning gift still floors tourists and residents to this day.

Come autumn, a thousand shades of green leaves are replaced by vibrant reds and golds, both underfoot and above the eyeline.

It's a scene more associated with New England or rural Japan, but worthy of celebration.

The locals certainly think so, and throw an annual Autumn Festival each April, with free entertainment, walking tours, art displays and markets.

During winter, the colours are replaced by crisp white snow, making the many wood-fired establishments even more inviting.

The main promenade, Buckingham Street, is full of heritage buildings that now serve local brews, meals, crafty endeavours, and - staggeringly - plenty of ice cream.

The town proudly boasts that not one international chain restaurant or bar has found its way into the street.

Long may it be so.

To the west of the Buckingham Street is a largely preserved Chinese settlement, one of the many excellent walking and cycling opportunities.

For those keen to ruin that walk, the town also boasts three excellent golf courses.

Twenty minutes down the road, bigger and brasher Queenstown also has its share of pulse-lowering endeavours.

A walk around the waterfront will give you a glimpse of the life of the adventurous as jet boat rides, paragliding and bungy operators all tout for business.

There's even a shark-boat which nauseatingly bobs in and out of the water at unappealing speed.

No thanks.

It's best instead to pick up a hot chocolate from one of the many local cafes (try Vudu - www.vudu.co.nz), perhaps an empanada from the local hole in the wharf, and walk around the bay to the historic Queenstown Gardens.

The gardens sit on a peninsula jutting into Lake Wakatipu and give tremendous views of Cecil Peak and hills surrounding the township.

Short of climbing one of the many peaks or walking into forests, it's here you can find a calmness unworthy of a walk five minutes from the centre of town.

The easiest way to look down on it all is the Queenstown gondola, a steep trip up Bobs Hill on the town's western side, with the option to eat casually or dine formally.

At the bottom of the gondola is another rare sight - the humble kiwis that reside in the local bird park (www.kiwibird.co.nz).

The park could be your best bet spotting the nocturnal and very shy national emblem, along with a good variety of local feathered friends.

Hitting the road - a hire car (www.omegarentalcars.com)is essential for any decent-length stay - and further pleasures await.

Three quarters of an hour west is isolated Glenorchy, with many Lord of the Rings locations found by foot or boat.

A similar distance east finds you in Cromwell, with its restored old town on the banks of Lake Dunstan boasting excellent morning teas.

Along the way are many of the vineyards that produce New Zealand's celebrated pinot noir - well worth a cellar door visit or two.

To the south, Milford Sound lays claim to be New Zealand's most popular tourist attraction, but it certainly takes some getting to.

But after three and a hours in the car, with extraordinary views along the way, the rewards are plentiful.

Kilometre-high mountains stretch from the water to the sky, striking monuments with admirable vegetation hanging on for dear life.

This is nature at its most arresting, best explored by boat, with local cruise operators (www.mitrepeak.com) that take walk-up bookings.

And should you travel north, striking views of New Zealand's tallest peak - Mount Cook or Aoraki - accompany you to patient Lake Tekapo in the heart of the island.

Should the most striking part of your stay be a dip in the plunge pool - set at the lake's temperature - straight from the Tekapo Springs sauna, consider your South Island mission accomplished.

LOWERING THE PULSE ON NEW ZEALAND'S SOUTH ISLAND

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Queenstown is approximately a three hour-flight from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Air New Zealand, Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar all fly to Queenstown Airport from the eastern seaboard, with increased frequency during the ski season.

STAYING THERE: Arrowtown boasts fantastic bed and breakfast accommodation in the heart of the town - which the town's website displays (www.arrowtown.com/accommodation).

PLAYING THERE: A visit to the Kiwi Birdlife Park costs NZ$42 for adults, NZ$21 for children 5-14 and is free for under fives. (kiwibird.co.nz)

A visit to the Tekapo Springs complex - which includes hot pools, sauna and steam room, plunge pool, a day spa and ice rink - starts at NZ$22. (www.tekaposprings.co.nz)

A two-hour cruise on Milford Sound starts at NZ$70. (www.mitrepeak.com)

  • The writer travelled independently