Dolphin sleeps with hapless snorkler

A dolphin slept with me. A whole pod, in fact. And it was bloody mind-blowing.

First came a fin. It wasn't a shark, but my adrenaline began to surge nonetheless. As that first dorsal broke the surface, so did another, and then another. There were about 30 dolphins in total, and all making a beeline for the 11 humans bobbing around in their Hawaiian loungeroom.

"This ain't no Sea World," drawls an US army vet to my right, as we both begin nervously backpaddling.

Observing our sly retreat, the marine biologist we hired to put us in this increasingly nerve-wracking position urges us to "Hold!" in one of those half whispers, half shouts.

We temporarily take heed, but our resolve dissipates when a juvenile explodes from the water just 15 metres away, executing a triple-spin.

"HOLD! ... ... Now!"

As one, the human pod begins to awkwardly scissor-kick their flippers in the same direction as the approaching school.

Another juvenile spirals out of the water metres from me, and as I rotate my own body to face downwards I see there are already two mature spinner dolphins swimming below, caressing flippers like an old married couple.

I keep up with them for 15 seconds, but my top pace is no match for their nonchalant glide.

As the old lovers leave me in their wake a group of six pass barely a metre to my side, while below them a mother shadows her 50cm-long calf.

It's not the only baby dolphin I see; mothers are sheltering their young all around.

We're now temporary, vulnerable, guests in their pod. And so long as we don't splash-kick too hard, scream out in excitement, or attempt to touch them, then our mild intrusion would be tolerated.

They have little patience for human horseplay, especially while sleeping, explains our marine biologist.

That's because spinner dolphins are nocturnal, spending their evenings hunting fish in deep water.

Up to 500 of them return to the nearby sandy bays during the day, about 200 metres off the west coast of Hawaii's Oahu island, turning off one side of their brain, and then the other, to sleep.

Like humans they rest closest to those they hold most dear, while the juveniles also share the same trait of staying up past their bedtime.

And while there are news reports splashed across the internet of dolphins acting both frisky and aggressive towards humans - these are wild animals afterall - this sleepy lot don't seem to mind us quietly watching on.

Their gentle pace and a lack of strong currents means it's not an onerous swim. I ask one middle-aged woman from landlocked Illinois how the experience is unfolding for her.

"Saltier than I expected."

Er, what?

"Like, really, really salty."

Confused, I ask her again to clarify.

"This is my first time in salt water!"

What a debut.

In total, we glide with the pod for about 20 minutes. On several occasions I even see some double back to make another curious pass with their one open eye.

I'm in Hawaii for the Duke's Oceanfest sports festival in Waikiki, staying at the luxurious Outrigger on the Beach in Waikiki. In a trip chock-full of delicious sunset Mai Tais, traditional Hawaiian meals, world-famous surf breaks, and unrivalled ocean views - swimming with these dolphins might just be the highlight of my trip. Possibly my entire travelling experience.

I've seen hundreds of dolphins from my surfboard and boat before, but never have I had the surreal experience of swimming amongst them - and there's not another tourist group in sight.

Two small groups of Hawaiian locals swim from the shoreline in an attempt to replicate our experience for free - but they have little luck. And it's all down to the marine biologist and trusty boat skipper of the Island Spirit.

The duo know exactly where to find the pods each day, which isn't even the tough part. The skipper has to predict each pod's movements, quickly drop us off in their path, and then hurry the catamaran out of the way.

The marine biologist then ensures our movements and behaviour in the water don't scare the dolphins off their approach. Part of their communication is through splashing, she says, and harassing them with the wrong signals is a sure way to divert them from their path - or attract unwanted attention.

Booking the experience is the easy part. I was put in touch through my hotel Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach. Renowned for its prime location on Waikiki Beach, the Outrigger's famous bar Duke's Waikiki has an unimpeded view of the ocean where modern surfing was born.

It also attracts the lion's share of cheery holidayers - couples and singles alike - from nearby hotels.

And staying just upstairs ensures a convenient place for us diurnal creatures to "sleep" together after a hard day's work dolphining around.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Hawaii's Oahu island is about a nine-hour flight from Brisbane and a 10-hour flight from Sydney.

Hawaiian Airlines flies from Brisbane and Sydney to Honolulu on Oahu. Fares start from $A1150 return, including taxes and charges, from Sydney to Honolulu. Go to Hawaiianairlines.com

Wild Side Specialty Tours offer their "swimming with the dolphins" deluxe charter from $US175 ($A189) per person. For more go to sailhawaii.com.

For airport transfers and transport around Oahu, check out eliteparking.net

STAYING THERE: You can't get any closer to the action than Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach. Its downstairs bar and restaurant Duke's Waikiki has an unrivalled view of one of the world's most famous surfing beaches. Prices start at $US249 ($A269) for a partial ocean view room. For more, visit outriggerwaikikihotel.com.

Outrigger Reef on the Beach is another aloha-style hotel close to all the Waikiki action. Popular for couples wanting to be closer to the heart of the shopping district. Prices start at $US239 ($A259) for a partial ocean view room. For more, visit outriggerreef-onthebeach.com.

PLAYING THERE: Hire a longboard outside Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach and give surfing a go. The gentle breaks of Waikiki Beach make it one of the best places in the world to learn how to surf. Check out faithsurfschool.com

• The writer was a guest of Outrigger Hotels, Hawaiian Airlines and Wild Side Specialty Tours.