Tastes of Malaysia

What's the best foodie destination in South-East Asia?

It's a question guaranteed to stir up debate: Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong would all fancy their chances. But Kuala Lumpur would surely stake a claim, too.

Spiked with influences from Malaysia's three main ethnic groups (Malay, Chinese and Indian), as well as flavours from other parts of Asia and beyond, the capital's cuisine is wonderfully rich and varied - and , in the main, incredibly good value. I recently used KL as a springboard to travel across Malaysia, and not only did I not have a bad meal during my fortnight there, I rarely spent more than $10 (29 ringgits) a time.

One place that kept drawing me back was Hutong. A self-styled "gourmet heritage village", it's nestled beneath Lot 10, one of the myriad malls in Bukit Bintang, the city's pulsating business, retail and entertainment district. As KL's temperatures often soar above 30C, with humidity levels more than 90 per cent, Hutong has a huge appeal: cracking "street food" in air-conditioned comfort.

Infused with a nose-pleasing array of cooking smells, this ambitious venture is modelled on an archetypal hutong (the narrow alleyways that characterise old Beijing), and comprises a maze of more than 30 stalls. Most are run by Malaysian Chinese families, who, for decades, hawked their wares in KL and other Malaysian cities such as Ipoh and Penang before being invited to move to - or open branches in - Lot 10's basement.

One old stager, Soong Kee, was founded in 1945, and is run by the son of the original owner. It specialises in meaty beef ball soup, plus noodles topped with minced pork sauteed with garlic and black soy sauce. Expect lengthy queues in the lunchtime and after-work rushes.

Established in 1927, and now in the fourth generation of the same family, Kim Lian Kee lures hungry punters eager for charcoal-fried Hokkien noodles, while Hutong's other vendors rustle up treats such as Cantonese-style porridge, honey-glazed pork and rice, duck egg char kuey teow, fish head noodles, popiah (spring rolls), fried oysters and curry laksa (a spicy coconut-based soup loaded with prawns and/or chicken).

Although some traditionalists rail at the prospect of consuming these old-fashioned dishes, made using centuries-old recipes, in such modern surroundings, others believe venues such as Hutong are a great way of keeping hawker food culture alive - and diners chilled out. As one young Malaysian man said to me, while savouring cendol (a refreshing dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk and starched noodles): "We love traditional street food but we don't always want to eat by the side of the road."

A short walk east of Lot 10, you'll find two other cool malls with superb eating options: the sleek Starhill Gallery, whose up-market Feast Village offers everything from dim sum and Malay classics to Mediterranean- style seafood and Nippon-styled grills in a Malay village-like setting; and the Pavilion, whose spick-and-span Food Republic is flush with good-quality pan-Asian eateries.

Truth be told, you could easily mall-hop (shopping and eating) for your entire KL stay, but you shouldn't neglect the city's steamy open-air charms.

A five-minute stroll north of Lot 10, Jalan Alor is one of KL's most vibrant eating thoroughfares, lined with egalitarian restaurants splashed with neon signs and ramshackle stalls clustered with plastic tables and chairs.

Passers-by are tempted by the likes of nasi goreng ayam (chicken fried rice), stingray clay pot, drunken prawns and barbecued satay sticks - as well as bottles of ice-cool beer. Other vendors sell ice-cream and tropical fruits, including durian (the love-it- or-hate-it hedgehog-shaped delicacy renowned for its pungent aroma).

A place that never really sleeps, Jalan Alor is around the corner from Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL's main nightlife strip; a hive of Middle Eastern kebab joints, German bars, Latin-American grills, Italian pizzerias, Irish and English pubs, Florida-esque cocktail lounges, tapas bars and gaudy discos.

Far less glam - but to some, more appetising - the largely Malay-run help-yourself nasi campur (mixed rice) restaurants are peppered across KL, and tend to do a roaring trade at lunchtimes. Patrons are given a plate of white rice and can choose from a buffet of freshly cooked dishes - typically a blend of fish, meat and vegetable options, usually flavoured with spicy, chilli-and-onion-fuelled sauces. You pay depending on what you eat and a piled-up plate will normally set you back about 10 ringgits.

For mutton biryani and vegetarian curries, served with dhal and chapatis, KL's highest concentration of bargain Indian eateries and stalls can be found in the colourful streets around the Masjid India mosque, north of Merdeka Square (a photogenic old cricket field where Malaysia sealed its independence from the British in 1957).

South-east of Merdeka, Chinatown is one of the city's liveliest eating and shopping enclaves, particularly around the market area of Jalan Petaling (Petaling Street). As well as being a haven of souvenirs, fake designer goods and bootleg DVDs, it's a favourite munching spot for locals and tourists, with pavements and alleyways chock-a-block with sense-arousing stalls. At one longstanding Petaling haunt, Tang City Food Court, you can feast on Chinese, Malay and Indian fare under a roof studded with whirring fans.

Chinatown also has its share of kopitiam (traditional coffee shops, where you can get a caffeine jolt, sweetened by condensed milk, and, if you're feeling rather hot, loaded with ice). They're decent places to start your day.

While many of KL's most memorable eateries are down to earth and kind on the wallet, the city isn't short of upscale venues.

One of the newest well-heeled establishments is Marini's on 57. Hidden on the 57th floor of the 267m-high Menara 3 Petronas skyscraper, it boasts a fine dining restaurant (specialising in Italian dishes but with cosmopolitan flourishes), a chic cocktail bar, an atmospheric malt whisky lounge, and - thanks to its floor-to-ceiling glass windows - stunning views of KL's ever-expanding urban jungle. As a bonus, Marini's gently breezy alfresco terrace is a stone's throw from the magnificent Petronas Twin Towers, which are illuminated after sunset to spectacular effect.

The sight of KL's icon, all lit-up, and so close, will long stay in the memory - alongside all those delicious meals, of course.

• fact file *

·Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia fly direct from Perth to Kuala Lumpur. See malaysiaairlines.com, airasia.com.

·Hutong in Lot 10 is usually open from 10am to 10pm daily: lot10hutong.com.

·The sleek new E&O Residences make a great base for exploring the Bukit Bintang area of KL. Apartment-like rooms are priced from about 390 ringgits ($133). See eoresidences.com.

·Also near Bukit Bintang, the Royale Chulan Hotel is a five-star affair with traditional Asian decor. Priced from 452 ringgits. See theroyalechulan.com.

·Near Chinatown, the Majestic Hotel is a renovated colonial-era pearl. Rooms priced from 412 ringgits. See majestickl.com.

·For more information on Malaysia see tourismmalaysia.com.au.

Steve McKenna's trip was supported by Tourism Malaysia.