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Michelin star awards 2024: London's newest winners, as the Ledbury triumphs with three

 (Matt Writtle)
(Matt Writtle)

In a ceremony held on Monday at Manchester’s historic Midland Hotel, the Michelin Guide revealed its winners — and losers — of 2024. This year marked the 50th anniversary of the guide.

It was a big night for London, with 14 wins overall: 10 new one stars, three new two stars, and one new three star.

It was The Ledbury that picked up its third. The Notting Hill restaurant, which won back its previously held two-stars soon after reopening in 2022, specialises in modern British fine dining of the highest order.

Another big win on the night was Gymkhana, which became London’s first ever Indian restaurant to win two stars, and Brooklands, which went straight into the guide at two having only opened late last year in the Peninsula Hotel. Trivet made the trio of London restaurants to scoop a brace.

Among the one stars were Tomos Parry’s Mountain, recently named “best new restaurant” by The Good Food Guide; 1890 at the Savoy — described as “the most appealing of the restaurants Gordon Ramsay runs in the Savoy Hotel” by host Amanda Stretton; and Pavyllon, the French chef Yannick Alleno’s London outpost in the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. Other wins included Dorian, Humo, and Akoko.

Starting almost 15 minutes after the advertised start time of 6pm — about the time it usually takes a restaurant to give away a reservation — and after a surprisingly American introduction for a French-born guide, returning host Amanda Stretton spoke in front of a room of chefs and restaurateurs that had travelled across the country to Manchester for the event, a city Stretton characterised as a “a vibrant and welcoming city at the forefront of British culture.” Interestingly, despite the city hosting the awards, none of its restaurants received a star.

The evening began with a tribute to Le Gavroche. “It was a rich, luxurious and proudly French restaurant. It helped define gastronomy in this country,” said Michelin’s international director Gwendal Poullennec.

“I’m bloody feeling emotional now, that’s for sure," said Gavroche owner Michel Roux, taking to the stage to wild applause.“The 13th was the last service and gee whizz that was tough. We had a very, very large glass of Champagne or two. We left on a high, and with a bang."

He was later presented with the Michelin chef-mentorship award in acknowledgement of his training of all the chefs who have passed through the Gavroche kitchen over the years.

Roux then presented the young chef of the year award, which went to Jake Jones of Forge, in Middleton Tyas, Yorkshire. Asked what makes a great up-and-coming chef, Roux said: “I can tell from the glint in their eye and the way that they listen. But they need a great mentor.”

New three star restaurants

The Ledbury, Notting Hill. Brett Graham’s luxurious west London spot has long been a Michelin favourite and remains one of the hardest tables in London to land a reservation at. Read our review. 

New two star restaurants

Gymkhana, Mayfair. JKS’ flagship Indian restaurant in Mayfair is a haven to rich, elegant dining, where the lamb chops are as tender as any in London, and the biryani celebrated by any who encounter it.

Brooklands, Mayfair. French chef Claude Bosi did the same thing at Bibendum, entering the Guide not with one star, but two. Brooklands is less a homage to classical French cuisine but just as much a nest of opulence. Read our review.

Trivet, Southwark. Ex-Fat Duck chef Johnny Lake partners with master sommelier Isa Bal at this airy Bermondsey restaurant, where the menu moves from crispy chicken wings to cured sea bass, and the wine list, as long as any in the UK, explores everywhere from Georgia to Lebanon. Read our review.

New one star restaurants

Mountain, Soho. Under the stewardship of chef Tomos Parry, Mountain opened in July 2023. It joins sister restaurant Brat in holding one. Read our review.

1890 at The Savoy, The Strand. Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant, opened in 2022, has won a Michelin star. Ramsay now holds 18 across the world.

Pavyllon, Mayfair. Multi-Michelin starred French chef Yannick Alleno arrived in the capital in 2023, quickly establishing a home to classic fine dining at his restaurant at The Four Seasons hotel, Park Lane.

Dorian, Notting Hill. This charming neighbourhood restaurant opened last year, an “anti-Notting Hill” space serving seasonally led dishes in a buzzy bistro setting. Read our review.

Akoko, Fitzrovia. Aji Akokomi founded West African restaurant Akoko in Fitzrovia in 2021, a restaurant aiming to use British ingredients, African spices, and shine a brighter light on food from the region in a modern way. Read our review.

Chishuru, Fitzrovia. Since moving from Brixton, and following a residency in Borough Market, Chishuru's move to the west end has proved remarkably successful. One of the most original new restaurants of 2023 Adejoke Bakare won this, her first Michelin star, less than six months since opening the new Chishuru.

Humo, Mayfair. A wood-fired dining concept in Mayfair from the Creative Restaurant Group revolving around a four-metre long grill, with no electricity or gas used as fuel.

Humble Chicken, Soho. Head chef Angelo Sato is not yet 30, but has already closed and reopened his cosy Soho restaurant. Now, diners are served a 13-course, East Asian-inspired omakase experience, one that moves from the progressive to the near-hallucinogenic.

Sushi Kanesaka, Mayfair. London’s most expensive restaurant upon opening, in 2023, with a £420 menu (it has since surpassed), Michelin described its sushi as being as “good as Tokyo.”

Aulis, Soho. Simon Rogan’s experimental counter dining experience in Soho expanded to double the size last year and now operates with the same forward-thinking ethos, but as more of a restaurant, less of a testing ground.

Ormer, Mayfair. Tucked away in the basement of Flemings Mayfair hotel, the restaurant is upmarket but relaxed, with Michelin talking of “charming, unstuffy service,” and superb ingredients from the British Isles.

There were no wins for Wimpy or KFC, despite calls for them to in the live stream comments.