The beauty beyond Gallipoli

A trip to Gallipoli has almost become a rite of passage for the thousands of Australians who head to Turkey each year.

But while Anzac Cove is a moving place to visit - especially when the lone bugler sounds The Last Post on April 25 - it's just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the must-see sights of this wonderfully diverse country, infused with European and Middle Eastern influences.

Although it's fairly large (more than twice the size of Germany), Turkey is easy to get around - either by flying with the efficient and inexpensive Turkish Airlines, or by using the deluxe coach services that link all the major cities and tourist resorts. Try to find time for these gems.

ISTANBUL

One of the world's greatest cities, Istanbul has reinvented itself over time and the longer you spend here, the more you will be able to appreciate its different hues and characteristics.

Most tourists begin by exploring Sultanahmet, the heart of old Istanbul and once the epicentre of the Ottoman Empire.

The neighbourhood has atmospheric medieval streets, down-to-earth shops selling kebabs and kofte (meatballs) and most of the city's famous attractions, including the Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

In Sultanahmet you'll often also see Turkish men laying prayer mats down in the street and women going about their business in head-scarves and all-encompassing black robes.

Take the ferry across the Bosphorus Strait, and you'll find a very different Istanbul. The thriving neighbourhood of Beyoglu reminded me of similarly cool districts in Paris or London.

There are reams of swanky shops, hip cafes and restaurants, a lively bar-hopping scene and an array of modern art galleries, which are exceedingly popular with trendy locals and, increasingly, more tourists.

Beyoglu is one of the districts at the forefront of Istanbul's 2010 European Capital of Culture celebrations and is hosting a number of exciting events.

EPHESUS

Despite its evocative name, many visitors find Troy a little disappointing.

Sure, the setting - on a cliff overlooking the bright blue Aegean Sea - is stunning but the site is rather small and the ruins aren't particularly impressive. The same can't be said for Ephesus, which is a few hundred kilometres further south and is regarded as the best-preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean.

This magnificent sprawling old Greco-Roman treat would surely stir the imagination of even the most reluctant sightseer. In about 100BC, it was home to 250,000 people and, once upon a time, could boast one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis.

Only one column remains of this iconic sight and no one lives at Ephesus any more, but several other gems from its glorious past either remain or have been lovingly restored, including the stunning Library of Celsus and the immense Great Theatre, which could once hold a crowd of 25,000. While the site could easily swallow a whole day of your time, don't miss the nearby city of Selcuk, which boasts a beautiful old hilltop castle-fortress and a lovely traditional old quarter, largely untarnished by tourism.

PAMUKKALE

Pamukkale shares something in common with Ephesus, peppered as it is with photogenic ancient Greco-Roman relics which once made up the city of Hierapolis.

But what makes Pamukkale so special is its natural setting. It's an astonishing sight, rising incongruously out of the sun-scorched countryside like a snow-coated mini-alpine range.

Dubbed the White or Cotton Castle, it owes its appearance to the presence of a network of underground limestone-laden thermal springs, which have, over the years, coated the little mountain's ridges and slopes with calcium. The springs have also created dozens of natural pools, which, especially if you visit Turkey in the height of the northern summer, are perfect spots to cool off. Once you've made your way up the occasionally slippery hill, and wandered around the old Hierapolis, take a dip in the pools that lie amid the sunken ruins.

It's very soothing and sufferers of asthma and rheumatism swear by the water's curing properties.

CAPPADOCIA

Cappadocia is a region in Turkey's vast central plateau that looks like it belongs on another planet. It's unsurprising to discover then, that parts of it were used in the filming of the original Star Wars movie.

Cappadocia comprises a handful of little towns and villages that have grown up around an array of weird and wonderful rock formations. Labelled "fairytale chimneys", they were fashioned about 10 million years ago when a chain of volcanoes erupted, spewing out ash and mud before hardening to become a layer of soft, porous stone called tuff.

Wind, rain, snow and sand have gnawed the tuff ever since, creating a medley of conical shapes, which were dug into by troglodytes looking to create homes and places of worship (including some of the first Christian churches). The caves offered respite from the contrasting natural elements of Cappadocia (in summer, temperatures can reach 50C, while in winter they can plummet to minus 20C). More recently, boutique hotels, bars and restaurants have been built inside the rocks.

The best place to stay is the town of Goreme. Not only it it quirkily picturesque and full of friendly locals, it's a fine place to wind down and drink copious amounts of Turkish tea and coffee.

IF YOU HAVE TIME

The Aegean-hugging quartet of Marmaris, Kusadasi, Cesme and Bodrum are all noted seaside spots but the country's most glamorous beach resort is Antalya, on the southern Mediterranean coast, which melds old Roman-Ottoman jewels with modern five-star luxury resorts. People often mistakenly believe Istanbul is the Turkish capital. That honour belongs to Ankara, a five-hour bus ride from Cappadocia, and home to possibly the country's best historical museum, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, which boasts 10,000-year old exhibits.

For something completely different, explore the east of Turkey, near the borders with Iran and Armenia. There's a highly Middle Eastern feel to this region. Highlights include the mystical sanctuary of the ancient gods on Mt Nemrut and the beautiful Lake Van.

>> See www.goturkey.com.