The colours of Kalbarri
For a complete change of scene, Niall McIlroy looks north to colourful Kalbarri.
It’s the colours of Kalbarri that stay with you between visits, and call you back.
The choc-milk Murchison slurps languidly between the mottled, striated rock face of the gorges in rust-red Kalbarri National Park. There is the deep blue of ocean, the clear blue sky above. Then add flashes of emerald, crimson and yellow in the clouds of parrots that have sanctuary just outside town.
Eight hours north of Perth, this is a thoroughly satisfying full-day drive — houses thin out, traffic does too, ushered on by the ocean on the left. Leave at six, arrive for a late lunch and a complete change of scene.
Speaking of which, the spectacular country around Kalbarri has the most literal of landmarks, structures etched into the very earth. Framing a photo through Nature’s Window of the sandstone- faced Murchison River Gorge far below is one of the set-piece WA snaps. The rock arch frames the upstream Murchison and is the starting point of a spectacular 8km Loop Walk Trail.
Z Bend, Kalbarri National Park. Picture: Greg Snell
But further along the walk, the great bow of the Z Bend is the most stunning view in an area not shy of them. The river has etched 150m deep into the rich red Tumblagooda sandstone over millions of years. But this is one eatery where you won’t pay through the nose for the view — there are picnic facilities and gas barbecues.
Other places for a bird’s-eye view include Ross Graham lookout and Hawk’s Head lookout, and during late winter and spring, the more you explore, the greater chance you have of finding blooms, such as the Kalbarri spider orchid and the Kalbarri catspaw, that flower in the national park. To get a fuller picture of the park’s beauty try abseiling, quad- biking or canoeing on the Murchison.
The river may be millions of years old but it’s a great place to reel in a fresh catch. Where the 780km river spills into tidal flats, there are bream and mulloway, whiting, blue manna and mud crabs. There are many fishing charters that will take you out to where the current and reef provide a rich feeding ground for fish.
If angling isn’t your angle, try quad-biking on windswept Wagoe Beach or to Murchison House Station, sand-surfing on the dunes, a whale-watching (June to November), dolphin or sunset cruise or really drop-in on Kalbarri from 8000m on a beach skydive.
Being such a popular day drive from Perth has blessed Kalbarri with a great range of accommodation from caravans and camping to backpackers, unit-style living, villa and resort stays and a station stay by the Murchison River.
For more about visiting Kalbarri, see australiascoralcoast.com.
