Discover Cervantes’ natural wonders

Niall McIlroy finds ancient attractions and fantastic beaches.

It may only be 200km to the north but Cervantes, on the sparkling Turquoise Coast, can feel a million miles away from the daily grind back in Perth.

A break there starts with that cathartic drive north. It used to be inland, along the Brand Highway, north through Gingin and Cataby then looping west to the coast.

But for the past five years it’s been along the Indian Ocean Drive, shorter and more scenic. North from Wanneroo Road, it spears on through Wannagarren Nature Reserve, hooking left and following the coast just past Wedge Island.

Nambung National Park is Cervantes’ southern doormat and the Pinnacles within the reserve are the town’s best-known attraction. Those limestone sentinels are also up there as one of WA’s most photographed features. The alien landscape attracts more than 200,000 visitors a year.

The Pinnacles form eerie shapes at Nambung National Park. Picture: Tourism WA

Head inside the fantastic Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre to learn more about the limestone lumps. Science says they are either the encased remnants of an ancient tuart forest or the leftovers of an eroded limestone bed. To the indigenous Yuat people, the Pinnacles are the fingertips of young men who didn’t listen, while another story tells of a battle between two groups and explains the Pinnacles as the remains of the dead.

The legends add an ethereal air to the eerie shapes, particularly at sunrise or sunset when most people arrive to photograph the Pinnacles.

Nearby Lake Thetis is one of the few places on Earth home to a stromatolite colony of micro-organisms. Thought to be more than 3370 years old, they are one of the world’s oldest living life forms — and an organism largely unchanged since they first appeared on the planet some 3.5 billion years ago.

The saline lake is ringed with paths and boardwalks, making this another great place for photos in the early-morning light. The lake can also be visited as part of a longer bush and beach walk between Thirsty Point and Hansen Bay — especially pretty during wildflower season in late winter and spring when parrot bush and numerous banksia varieties are in flower.

Lake Thetis in Cervantes. Picture: Tourism WA

Take the boardwalk through the dunes to the top of Thirsty Point, while from Hansen Bay Lookout there are good views of Cervantes Island, Lake Thetis and the town itself — just a short drive north, and just the spot for breakfast if you’ve headed up for sunrise.

Speaking of which, there are some who may catch their own breakfast; others are angling for a quiet time, sunsets, sea breezes, strolls along the beaches. There’s ample opportunity for all of this.

For the coast around Cervantes and north to Jurien Bay is a stretch of white sand: fantastic beaches, with onshore afternoon breezes and washed by turquoise waters great for a dip at any time of the year.

Perhaps later in the day, enjoy a picnic — there are a surprising number of facilities around town. Hangover Bay has gazebos with tables and gas barbecues, and its sheltered waters are frequented by sea lions and dolphins. No coincidence that it’s a good fishing and snorkelling spot, while those winds make it good for windsurfing. Aptly named Kangaroo Point is another good fishing and picnic spot, and at sunrise and sunset, the roos will assemble. For views of town from the north, head to Molar Hill Lookout.

At Cervantes itself, the jetties are also great fishing points. This stretch of ocean makes up the Jurien Bay Marine Park and while there are a few protected zones, fishing is allowed at most spots. These waters, fed by the warm Leeuwin Current, are rich in sea life and are known for crayfish. Dolphins, seals, sea lions and even migrating whales can be spotted, too.

Australian sea lions on the beach at Jurien Bay. Picture: Tourism WA

Jurien Bay, some 20km further north of Cervantes, is great for fishing and crabbing — particularly from the old factory jetties and the limestone groynes. The bay, protected by off-shore islands and reefs, has clear waters for swimming, while along the bay there are noted surfing and windsurfing spots. Those islands are home to sea lion colonies.

The area was gazetted in the 1860s and for a long time used mostly by drovers moving cattle on the Old North Road Stock Route. To the east of town, Drover’s Cave National Park includes one of the old overnight and watering spots used by the stockmen, but the cavern is locked.

More accessible is Lesueur National Park, north-east of Jurien Bay — an 18km sealed loop road allows visitors to explore an area known as a wildflower hotspot, with an incredible 10 per cent of the State’s flora species growing. Visit in late winter to see acacias, hibbertias and pink enamel, blue lady and cowslip orchids.

Climb Mt Lesueur for views of the coast including Sandy Point, a great spot for swimming, snorkelling and fishing, where there are campsites with long-drop toilets.

For more information on the area, see australiascoralcoast.com.