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Community spirit with Kimberley tours

Steve Butler finds true Aboriginal community spirit.

Driving along the corrugated red road into the Kimberley’s Jarlmadangah Burru Aboriginal Community provides an exhilarating shake-up for almost all of the senses.

But it is the immense visuals of the area’s typically rugged backdrop of the Grant Ranges which reign supreme. And Kimberley Dreamtime Adventure Tours, now well established by the extended family which lives at the tight-knit community of 75, provides the perfect insight into the stories that shape the picturesque surrounds some 90km south-east of Derby.

KDAT business manager Jessie Stanley and her husband Ian Edmondson, the local school principal, came to Jarlmadangah last year from an 18-month stint working in Arnhem Land. She said she was taken by her new home, which features gems such as a stunning rock pool just a few minutes away from her home, from the moment she arrived.

“Just the drive in and the impression of the red rocks and the arrival into the community … and then the warm welcome we received was quite incredible,” Ms Stanley said.

“I hope that every tourist that comes along kind of feels that, that it’s a special bit of land here. Then what makes it more special is the access to the stories. There are even books that have been written about the area that give you that deeper history. The experience here is a real community immersion and getting that sense of place and connection to land and family – and of course, that iconic Kimberley, too.”

The Jarlmadangah Burru community was established in 1987 after the land holding was excised from Mt Anderson station. Ms Stanley said one of the most notable features of the community was its stringent self-regulation which banned most social evils and she hoped recent debate about funding for Aboriginal communities did not affect Jarlmadangah Burru.

“There is no robbery, there is no alcohol and that’s not because of a law that the police have had to hand down.” she said.

“It’s because the community has decided that. I just love that it goes against all the stereotypes and I feel lucky to be able to say I’ve seen something completely different. I know this is a very special place where the people are really family-centric and have such a connection to it.

“The idea of no longer having the funding to be able to keep some of those municipal services here ... I see these families being divided because they would need to move to Looma or Derby or wherever and that would be a real loss for that sense of place that they’ve got here.”

KDAT has three main offerings – a two-day culture tour, a three day bush adventure and now also Saturday morning camel treks with local elder Harry Watson. Primarily, the business is underpinned by school tours, but tailored excursions to stay on country in a rugged outdoor setting are also on offer. Tours include meeting the locals, visiting exclusive rock-art sites, or billabongs and creeks for fishing and swimming, trying traditional bush tucker and learning about traditional medicines, as well as hearing the stories told by traditional land owners.

This year’s bookings, which Ms Stanley said had “almost tripled” in financial value in comparison to last year, also feature three five-day camel treks in partnership with WA’s Department of Corrective Services. But there are many different highlights to explore.

“We went on a camel trek a couple of weeks ago to another rock pool around the back of Mt Anderson station and it was just lovely,” Ms Stanley said.

“There is also a place called Honeymoon Springs, which is not the local name. It’s a local water source that was used by people in the area for hundreds of years and it’s even been used as a camp where people would hide from police so they had access to fresh water and a safe hiding spot. There is also a cave near Mt Anderson station, but the stories are best told by the people here.”

The best annual time to travel to the Jarlmadangah Burru community is from now until the end of September because of the cooler conditions.

FACT FILE

Kimberley Dreamtime Adventure Tours has a 2.5 hour camel trek, two day culture tour and three day bush adventure.

The two day culture tour is $492 for adults, $350 for children 7-12 between April 27 and June 21, and July 20 and October 16.

It is $550 for adults and $400 for children 7-12 from June 22 to July 19.

This includes pickup from Broome accommodation or Willare Bridge Roadhouse.

kdat.com.au and 9191 7280.