On the Outlander Trail in the Highlands

I am on the trail of Jamie and Claire — and occasionally Bonnie Prince Charlie — from Inverness to Fort William.

I speak, of course, of the fictional protagonists of Diana Gabaldon’s internationally bestselling novel series, Outlander — recently made into a TV series shown in Australia on BBC First — which begins in the Highlands a few years before the final campaign to return a Stuart king to the throne.

And there is plenty to delight both Outlander and non-fans alike.

My first stop is Culloden Battlefield, a short drive from either Inverness or the airport.

The well-set-up visitor centre houses an excellent exhibition that traces the story of the Jacobites and features a 360deg. reproduction of the battle.

Walking across the moor gives some idea of what the soldiers were up against. At the far side, where the Jacobite frontline stretched, the ground is waterlogged and hillocky, covered in heather, gorse and brambles; it would have been a hard slog for the soldiers as they pushed towards the government lines.

At the memorial cairn I find the Clan Fraser stone among Camerons, Mackenzies, MacGillivrays, Mackintoshes and others.

The Clan Fraser stone at Culloden. Picture: Kiri Falls

From Culloden I nip down the road to Clava Cairns: stone circles that stand in for the fictional Craigh na Dun that whisked Claire from 1945 to 1743.

Whether or not these ancient standing stones are a time portal is unconfirmed; all I can say is, I put my hand on the split stone and I’m still here in 2015.

Back in the car I hit the A96 toward Inverness and on to the Black Isle, a richly scenic peninsula girthed by the Cromarty Firth on the north and the Moray and Beauly Firths on the south.

I’m seeking the inspiration for Castle Leoch, where Outlander chieftain Colum Mackenzie and his brother Dougal fought for the clan and Scotland’s future.

While Castle Leoch doesn’t exist, Castle Leod does — the seat of Clan Mackenzie to this day.

As this is still the family home of the Mackenzie chief, the castle is only open a few days each month for six months of the year — check well ahead if you are keen to visit.

You can even find the rowan tree planted by Diana Gabaldon in her role as guardian of the castle.

But if your trip doesn’t coincide with an open day, never fear: the drive through Mackenzie lands is worth it for its sheer beauty. Reddish hills covered in blazing yellow gorse and forests of pine stand behind miles of pasture, and far in the distance snow-topped Ben Wyvis tips the clouds.

Next stop, Beauly, takes me into the lands of the Frasers of Lovat.

I visit the ruined Priory, where Claire found a peaceful moment, and find a number of gravestones for Frasers and Mackenzies, including one, eerily, for James Fraser (but, of course, marked 1931).

In a similar vein, the Wardlaw Mausoleum at Kirkhill is across the river.

The “Old Fox” Simon Fraser, a real historical figure positioned in the books as Jamie’s grandfather, is reputedly buried here — although as he was beheaded as a traitor in London this is unconfirmed.

Inverness looks picturesque on the River Ness. Picture: Kiri Falls

By midafternoon I head back to Inverness, the city at the heart of the Highlands.

Outlander opens here as Claire and her 20th century husband Frank are taking a second honeymoon after World War II.

Walking the streets I can imagine them, in 1940s Inverness, nutting out Frank’s family history at Reverend Wakefield’s home and staying at Mrs Baird’s B&B. There are numerous charming guesthouses within walking distance of the town centre, for something a little different to the usual hotel.

With a few hours to spare I stroll along the River Ness, visit St Andrew’s Cathedral, take in the view from Inverness Castle and visit the exhibition of Fraser kiltmakers at Highland House.

On day two I have a few Outlander sites lined up but I’m also injecting a little more Jacobite history into the trail.

I set off from Inverness early in the morning and drive along the south bank of Loch Ness.

Mysterious Loch Ness is worth a stop. Picture: Kiri Falls

General Wade’s Military Road (aka the B852) is a narrow, winding road and I have to keep my wits about me.

I pull over to soak up the peace of this large and beautiful loch; just mysterious enough to imagine Claire’s strange encounter ...

Next stop: Fort William, where several scenes with the villainous Black Jack Randall took place. Only a small part of the old fort wall remains but there is a lovely view across the water below the magnificent Nevis Ranges.

The landscape has been changing as I move west, the rolling green of the Inverness area giving way to enormous craggy hills. I have to concentrate just to keep my eyes on the road and not stare open-mouthed at the scenery.

The road becomes ever more narrow and winding as I drive to Glenfinnan, where the standard was raised in 45 — and it’s easy to see why this spot was chosen.

On this bright May day the bay sparkles blue between broad hills and green forest, surrounding a column in monument to the cause.

Before retracing my steps I take a quick detour up the road to look for the Prince’s Cairn: keep your eyes peeled for this one, as it’s indicated only by a little black sign.

But it’s a small historical thrill to stand at the spot where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed and escaped from the mainland.

I’m leaving this wild landscape behind to wend my way back to Inverness but there’s one more significant spot on the trail yet.

This time taking the north bank of Loch Ness, a more accommodating road, and taking a left turn at Drumnadrochit.

The road from Cannich meanders along the River Cannich and I take some time to wend up through the enchanting Comar Wood before eventually looping back.

Forest in Glen Affric. Picture: Kiri Falls

This is Glen Affric, a beautiful reserve that contains remnants of the Great Caledonian Pine Forest and where the fictional Lallybroch could be found, roughly on the border of Fraser and Mackenzie lands.

Several times I meet the odd ewe wandering down the road with lamb in tow, giving me barely a glance over her shoulder as though we have all the time in the world.

And I actually feel like I do. There is hardly anyone around and when I spy a secluded little waterfall by an old hut I stop to leisurely explore without the buzz of traffic in the background.

But time presses on and as the day draws to a close I return to Inverness and the 21st century, letting all things Outlander drift back into the past.

FACT FILE

If you have an extra few days you can expand your itinerary out to the Isle of Skye and south to places such as Stirling to visit Doune Castle, which was Castle Leoch in the Outlander TV series. Check open days for Castle Leod at castleleod.org.uk.

Culloden Visitor Centre is ticketed: £11 ($22) adult, £26 family, £22 single adult family, and £8.50 concession for exhibition entry and a battlefield audio guide. The visitor centre is closed between December 24 and February 1 but the battlefield is accessible all year.

The Glenfinnan Monument is ticketed: £3.50 adult, £9 family, £7 single adult family, and £2.50 concession, for entry into the tower and exhibition. Tickets for the above plus tour are £7 adult, £18 family, £14 single adult family, and £5 concession. It is open all year.

You can join one of many Outlander-themed tours around the Highlands: invernesstours.com; wowscotlandtours.com; clansandcastles.com; rabbies.com.