Advertisement

Classic Cote d’Azur

Many river cruise itineraries in the south of France start or end with a coach trip to the French Riviera and there’s the possibility of staying on for a few days after. Richard Pennick enjoys the region.

St Paul de Vence is close to Nice and well worth the morning bus ride (number 400). St Paul is one of the most picturesque and charming hilltop villages in Provence. Its charm reflects the influence of artists — of generations current and past — who have lived here. Picasso often visited his friend, artist Marc Chagall, who made the village his home for 20 years. Chagall is at rest in the village’s well-tended cemetery.

A touch of the artist’s hand appears around every corner. A balance of colour and symmetry greets the eye in every square, ivied arch and potted plant groupings. Cobbled streets weave past churches and ornate timber doors. Statues peep through tumbling lilac wisteria. Curly iron gateways open to colourful gardens, perfect little homes and tasteful art galleries. The village’s 14th century ramparts overlook the often-painted mountain and sea views.



We’re staying in Nice, on the busy Promenade des Anglais, and have planned an itinerary of sightseeing tours and local transportation. The Cote d’Azur, or French Riviera, extends more than 100km south from the Italian border to St Tropez. Local travel by train or bus is easy.

Our hotel is across the Promenade des Anglais from the beach, and I’m soon in for a swim in the calm, warm Mediterranean. The hard part is walking over the hard pebbles to and from the water; I am glad of my thongs.

This first evening, we walk along the promenade and turn up into Nice’s old town. We are soon engaged in a world of narrow pedestrian streets, lively squares, splashing fountains, classic churches, shops and more shops, restaurants and bars. We dine in the old town’s Cours Saleya, which by day is a produce market but by night transforms into a restaurant plaza with many dining choices.

Browsing the menus, we finally decide on a creperie and order a large crepe each. One is stuffed with ricotta and savoury cheeses, Black Forest ham and mushrooms; the other loaded with eggplant, tomato and Gruyere cheese. A house salad with Dijon mustard, white-wine vinegar and olive oil dressing cleanses the palate. For dessert, we have sugared crepe flambes with Grand Marnier and scoops of strawberry sorbet. We then stroll back along the promenade by the light of the silvery moon.

The following morning, a white-knuckle local bus races us up the winding, scenic coastal road to Monaco. It stops below the Rock of Monaco and we walk up Avenue St Martin to the Oceanographic Museum and Jacques Cousteau’s tiny yellow submarine, past grand State buildings and residences to the royal palace. We arrive just in time for the changing of the guard.

Opposite the palace is a warren of residences, tiny shops and cafes. Armed with a croque monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) each, we walk the ramparts above the mega-yacht-filled harbour to St Martin Gardens. Here, in the shade of ancient olive trees and Aleppo pines, we eat our lunch. The Monaco Cathedral overlooks the gardens and after lunch we file respectfully past the family crypt where Prince Rainier III is interred beside his fairytale princess, Grace.



As we have only scratched the culinary surface of the Cours Saleya, in the evening we return to one of the many pizzerias. We are not disappointed with the enormous, doughy Sicilian pizza and a carafe of warm red at La Favola.

On our last morning, we catch the local bus the short distance up to Eze, a medieval hilltop village on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Med. It’s a steep climb up narrow cobbled lanes and steps lined with souvenir shops and cafes. A cactus garden on a high slope leads to the hilltop ruins of a 12th century castle. Here, a small foot-worn rock plateau overlooks the sea where the ancients must have stood, as we do now, to admire the view.

Our last evening finds us at sunset with many others, in Monte Carlo in the Place du Casino. A ring of ancient palms surrounds a central garden of fountains and flowerbeds. On one side of the garden is the luxurious and very large Hotel de Paris, which was built in 1864. Across the gardens from the hotel is the newer, American-style casino, flanked by restaurants and clubs.

At the head of the Place du Casino, the illuminated Belle Epoque facade of the 1893 Casino de Monte-Carlo dominates. We squeeze between the Rolls-Royces and Bentleys, climb the steps, nod to the doormen and enter the Salon Renaissance foyer. Here, we pay the €10 ($13.90) entry fee and wander around the salons of chandeliers, gilded columns, galleries, plush carpets and paintings.

Hearing the familiar ring of slot machines, we take a turn around the Salon Europe where promising “chings” bounce around the fine-art frescoes.



Entering the casino’s grand Salon Rose dining room is one of those experiences where just being there is enough.

The room’s high windows look out over the casino terraces to the Mediterranean. Gold brocade curtains rise up cream walls to an extravagantly gilded, moulded ceiling. Framed by the moulding is the celebrated painting Les Fumeuses by Massimiliano Gallelli — curvaceous nudes reclining on clouds while smoking cigarillos.

Our dinner in these celebrated surroundings is the grand finale to an exciting three-day discovery of just a little bit of the Cote d’Azur.