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Best of both isles: Touring NZ

After many trips, Richard Pennick remains enthralled by our neighbour

We are old hands when it comes to travelling around New Zealand. When friends ask what they should do when they visit, we are happy to make suggestions. We love the place.

In 10-14 days, you can experience much of the country’s natural beauty, attractions and culture. However, you may need a few more days to hit all the suggested highlights.

The islands of New Zealand — the North Island, the South Island and smaller islands including Stewart Island — sit happily in the South Pacific. A bird’s-eye view from north to south starts from the lush green hills of subtropical Northland and the scenic Bay of Islands. The North Island narrows at Auckland then opens up to the pastures of Waikato. To the east are the golden beaches and mountain forests of the Coromandel Peninsula. South on the high Central Plateau are the thermal pools of Lake Rotorua, the crystalline Blue Lake and the enormous expanse of lovely Lake Taupo.

The Central Plateau yields to the tussocks of the Tongariro National Park and the smoking beauty of Mt Ruapehu. Volcanoes give way to vineyards and farmland as the North Island reaches the Cook Strait and New Zealand’s capital city of Wellington.

Across the Cook Strait, the celebrated vineyards of the South Island’s Marlborough region beckon. Further south, Christchurch spreads out across the Canterbury Plains. To the west, the snow-capped Southern Alps dominate the horizon, feeding a string of blue glacial'''''' lakes which end with Queenstown’s Lake Wakatipu.



Carved by glaciers and the Tasman Sea, Fiordland’s vast inlets run deep into the west coast. Milford Sound is one such “inlet”. On the east coast, at the South Island’s widest point, is the city of Dunedin. New Zealand’s most southerly city is Invercargill and across the Foveaux Strait, Stewart Island has little beyond it but the Southern Ocean and Antarctica.

If it’s outdoors, Kiwis are into it. There are no nasties in New Zealand to bite you — no snakes and very few poisonous spiders — and the mozzies are lightweights. Play inexpensive “low wait” golf on friendly fairways. Cycle paths and walking tracks are easily accessible. The Milford Track is legendary.

Eating choices are similar to those in Australia. The wines of New Zealand are among the finest in the world — dare you to order an Aussie vintage. Maori fish names may not be familiar but fresh seafood of every kind awaits — try whitebait fritters, a Kiwi delicacy. The coffee is excellent.

Although NZ is a year-round destination, the most settled, warm-weather months are February, March and April. We have also happily travelled around in June and July — sometimes in T-shirt weather — and had it to ourselves.

Driving or being driven is the best way to appreciate New Zealand’s ever-changing scenery. Point-to-point distances are manageable, with highway traffic particularly light on the South Island.

It’s worth spending four nights in Queenstown as the spectacular lake and mountain setting offers both adventure and discovery.'''''' Activities include cruising Lake Wakatipu on the vintage steamship TSS Earnslaw and riding the Skyline gondola up to Bob’s Peak. Walk the lakeside path up to the botanic gardens. Drive to the historic gold mining settlement of Arrowtown. For something more action-packed, try tandem paragliding from Coronet Peak, doing a bungy jump or shooting the Shotover River in a jet boat.



The must-see highlights from Queenstown are Fiordland and the magnificent Milford Sound. It’s a full-day return coach trip, or you can fly one or both ways. There are also tours to Mt Cook from Queenstown (4.5 hours by road one-way). Some tours include a flight on to the snow for stunning views of the mountain. Call ahead to check the weather forecast.

If time allows, drive from Queenstown through the Southern Alps over the Haast Pass to Franz Josef Glacier for an overnighter. The following morning visit the glacier then continue up the west coast to Greymouth and drop the car off at the train station. The TranzAlpine train recrosses the Southern Alps, stopping briefly at Arthur’s Pass, before descending to the Canterbury Plains and Christchurch.

Stay four nights in Christchurch. It is still the Garden City — despite the 2011 earthquake — and it’s booming. Activities include punting the River Avon through Hagley Park and visiting the delightful botanical gardens. Ride the vintage tram loop, then visit the Quake City museum. Tragically, the cathedral was devastated by the earthquake; the ruins stand in Cathedral Square, almost a monument to that fateful day. Browse the unique Re:START container shopping mall.

Another must-do is the day trip to Akaroa, the historic little French settlement on the Banks Peninsula, 80km from Christchurch.



Wellington, the nation’s capital and seat of government, is worth a two-night stay. Visit the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Drive or walk up to the Mt Victoria lookout. Stroll the waterfront to Oriental Bay. Ride the historic cable car up to Kelburn Village, then walk down through the botanic gardens. A must for'''' Lord of the Rings fans is the Weta Cave workshop tour.

Aim for three nights at Rotorua. Fly from Wellington to this extraordinary thermal region and Maori cultural heartland. Experience the bubbling mud pools at the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village. Visit the Rotorua Museum in the heritage Bath House building, the Te Puia Maori wood carving school, Government Gardens on Lake Rotorua’s shore and The Redwoods walk. Fifteen kilometres from Rotorua is the fascinating buried village of Te Wairoa, smothered by the 1886 Mt Tarawera eruption.

Possible road trips from Rotorua are the Waitomo glowworm caves (two hours) for a fairytale boat ride beneath hundreds of glowworms. Or visit Middle Earth and the Hobbiton movie set near Matamata (50 minutes).

Auckland, New Zealand’s commercial capital, has evolved into a cosmopolitan, multicultural city and is well worth a three-night visit. Browse Auckland Art Gallery’s collection of colonial and European art.

Catch the hop-on hop-off bus to Mt Eden Gardens and lookout, the Auckland Domain and Winter Gardens, the War Memorial Museum with its military and Maori artefacts, the Parnell rose gardens and St Mary’s timber church, then browse the cafes and shops of old Parnell village. Downtown, there’s the Sky City Casino and Tower, Britomart and Viaduct Harbour for casual and classy eating, plus stylish boutiques and shops.

The Waiheke Island ferry from Auckland (40 minutes) cruises through the Hauraki Gulf islands. Guided tours visit the island’s beautiful bays, beaches and vineyards — reserve ahead for a leisurely vineyard lunch; it makes for a great day out.



Take a tour or drive three hours north of Auckland to Paihia and the Bay of Islands, where I’d recommend a two-night stay. En route enjoy a coffee stop in the artists’ village of Matakana. In the Bay of Islands, head out on a Hole in the Rock cruise and look for dolphin sightings. Opt for a return drop off at the historic town of Russell, just across Pomare Bay from Paihia.

Visit the Waitangi Treaty grounds and house, the birthplace of New Zealand. Look for the beautifully carved panels in the Maori meeting house and the 35m Maori ceremonial war canoe, Ngatokimatawhaorua.