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Dram fine time in Perthshire

A castle stay, scenic surrounds and tempting treats. Leyanne Baillie is charmed by Pitlochry.

The Victorian town of Pitlochry is in the centre of Scotland and, since the arrival of the railway station in 1863, has been a thriving tourist spot for more than 150 years. Just under a two-hour journey by train from Edinburgh or Glasgow, it is the perfect escape after a busy city break.

It is a very pleasant drive from either city too, with scenery that becomes more spectacular the closer I get to the Perthshire town. In summer the rolling hills and majestic mountains are covered in lush forests in many shades of green, come September the purple hues of heather are a highlight, while from October onwards the stunning autumnal colours give New England a run for its money and after that a generous dusting of snow will turn the hillsides into a winter wonderland.

On my way to the Highland gateway town, I stop at Deanston Distillery, near Doune, 13km from the city of Stirling. The whisky distillery sits by the River Teith and the entrance to The Trossachs National Park. Deanston started out as a cotton mill in 1785. It manufactured sheets and curtain lace and was a valuable source of employment for many of the Highlanders who were forced to leave their homes after the Highland Clearances.

As the workforce grew, housing was built for the employees, along with three grocery shops and a haberdashery. Ironically, the decision was made that on no account was there to be a public house, for fear that it might corrupt the workers. A schoolhouse was built in 1897 and local children attended from the age of five until they left to go to work, aged nine. Small, nimble figures were always needed at the mill.

By the 1920s, demand for locally produced cotton dwindled and the mill reduced its workforce from 1500 to 500. The industry continued to decline and Deanston Mill closed its doors in 1965.

The copper stills at Deanston Distillery. Picture: Leyanne Baillie

But two years later Deanston Distillery opened and the former mill’s location on the banks of the River Teith makes it the ideal home for a distillery. The water used in production is drawn from the river and the constant cool temperature in the weaving shed is perfect for maturation.

The distillery runs tours explaining the production of Scotland’s famous drink. Our guide Belen takes us through milling, mashing, fermenting, distilling and maturation. The majority of the process is done by hand in the traditional way and Belen is proud to tell us that the only piece of electronic equipment used is the scales which weigh out the milled barley at the start of the journey. The calculations are even written out by hand on a blackboard, rather than using a calculator or computer.

I have to admit that I am a disgrace to my heritage and have no taste for whisky. I’d much prefer a gin, but I agree to join in a tasting. My spirits lift when I see, beside the four glasses of varying colours of whisky, four indulgent- looking chocolates. We taste a 12-year-old single malt, matched with a cocoa-dusted velvet truffle; the single blend matured in virgin oak is paired with a ginger truffle; the orange and clove truffle highlights the 16-year-old toasted oak’s spice and the almond flavours of dark chocolate-covered marzipan are delicious with the 10-year-old sherry-cask limited edition. The combination of whisky and chocolate is genius, each Highland Chocolatier treat highlighting the different flavours in the drams.

And so, warmed by whisky, I make my way to Pitlochry and my base at Fonab Castle, which has another tipple at the heart of its history. Originally built in 1892 for port and sherry merchants the Sandeman family, and used as a hospital in World War I, the renovated castle is set on the banks of Loch Faskally and is surrounded by spectacular Highland scenery. The property is now owned by developers Joanne and Jed Clark, who bought the castle in 2002 and have clearly spent a lot of time and money developing it into the five-star luxury hotel it is today.

Fonab Castle has been beautifully developed to provide luxury accommodation for visitors. Picture: Leyanne Baillie

I check in to my room and am instantly blown away. Classic, yet modern — sporting flashes of chrome and touches of Harris tweed — it is thoughtfully kitted out with features including USB ports, an MP3 player dock, wall- mounted smart TV, Thierry Mugler toiletries, White Company linen, motion-sensor wardrobe lights and a traditional-style desk which, with a flick of the lid, converts into a dressing table. The addition of a Nespresso machine and fresh milk is a welcome change from sachets of instant coffee and UHT milk.

A spa and function suites were being completed during my visit, making it the ideal destination for pamper weekends and weddings. The setting is a perfect backdrop for photographs, with stunning views over the loch to the hills and forests beyond.

It also makes a lovely venue for afternoon tea and the hotel’s attention to detail continues in the cake stand that is set before me. Delicate sandwiches with local ham, egg mayo and the prettiest smoked salmon open sandwich, decorated with slivers of red onion, tiny capers and edible flowers. A generous serving of sweet treats includes feather-light strawberry sponge, crisp pastry cases filled with vanilla cream and Perthshire raspberries, profiteroles slathered in chocolate ganache and sprinkled with pistachios, buttery shortbread and a rich chocolate brownie.

I am fit to burst, so decide a walk into town is in order. A pleasant 15-minute stroll along the river takes me to the quaint yet bustling main street, filled with a great selection of cafes and restaurants showcasing locally sourced food. There is also a good choice of shops selling gifts, outdoor wear and souvenirs, plus a little gem which stocks handmade soaps, bath and skincare products.

Luxury abounds at fabulous Fonab Castle. Picture: Leyanne Baillie

The Highland Soap Co. puts an emphasis on herbal therapies and natural ingredients, including heather, nettle, sea lavender, and honeysuckle. Many of the ingredients are organic or wild- harvested and the products are made in a workshop in Lochaber, by the foot of Ben Nevis.

The soaps are produced using a centuries-old cold-batch process which mixes various oils with pure Scottish Highland water. The method takes about four weeks to cure each small batch.

I remind myself that I have a luggage allowance on my return flight and find it difficult to narrow down my selection. The raspberry body wash smells good enough to eat and I’m tempted by the wild nettle and heather hand cream but settle on a sweet orange and cinnamon organic hand wash and a wild fig-scented candle.

Having walked off my afternoon tea, I return to the castle for an indulgent shower (the bathrooms have the biggest shower heads I’ve ever seen) and once I’m spruced up, it’s time for dinner in the brasserie.

Verdant forest surrounds Loch Faskally at Fonab Castle, Perthshire. Picture: Leyanne Baillie

Again, the decor is traditional with contemporary twists and the interesting menu tempts my tastebuds. I settle on Dunkeld smoked salmon with beetroot and Granny Smith apple, followed by perfectly plump Skye mussels.

I have no space for dessert but when I get back to my room, I succumb to the temptation of the chocolates which were provided on my arrival. Soft salted caramel wrapped in milk chocolate is a delight and the raspberry ganache covered in white chocolate and powdered berries is spectacular, but it’s the cardamom-scented caramel that pops my socks. Glasgow-based company Sugar Wings know their stuff — this is very clever chocolate making.

I settle down for the night and it is almost impossible to get up for breakfast the following morning. The bed is ridiculously comfortable — once again the Clark attention to detail is a winner — and it is only the thought of freshly-squeezed strawberry juice, fruit salad with yoghurt and berry compote, and a traditional Scottish breakfast of bacon, haggis, black pudding, egg and potato scone that tempts me out of bed.

A walk around the loch will help burn off those extra calories.

Leyanne Baillie was a guest of VisitScotland and Qatar Airways.

FACT FILE

Qatar Airways now flies direct to Edinburgh from its Doha hub. It departs at 11.30pm from Perth seven days a week, arriving in Doha at 5.50am, connecting to the Doha-Edinburgh service, which departs Friday to Monday and Wednesday at 8am, arriving in Edinburgh at 1.15pm. qatarairways.com.

For more on visiting Scotland, go to visitscotland.com.