Soul-soothing haven in India

In the Himalayan foothills, Chris Gillard takes a break from contemporary cares at Glenburn Tea Estate.

Arriving at the tiny regional airport at Bagdogra in North Bengal after a two-and-a-half hour flight from Bangkok, my wife and I were met by the incongruous sight of chilled lemonade, sandwiches and cake served from a hamper in the four-wheel-drive that was to take us to our destination, Glenburn Tea Estate, high in the hills near Darjeeling - the tone was set: pampering was the order of the day.

The heat and dust of the plains soon gave way to lush green hills and the winding road passed through small hill towns and villages until we reached our stop for the next 10 days, Glenburn Tea Estate.

The property was founded in 1859 by a Scottish tea company and is now owned by the Prakash family, who have restored the bungalows in the colonial plantation style to a degree of luxury to satisfy the most discerning guests. Restored teak flooring and antique furniture and fittings add to the quiet and refined atmosphere, a place to relax and unwind.

An extensive herb and spice, fruit and vegetable garden allows menus to contain local ingredients; the appetising breakfast, lunch, and morning and afternoon tea would satisfy the heartiest appetite.

A car and driver is at your disposal at all times, so trips into Darjeeling, 90 minutes away, took us to see the Durga Puja celebrations, with local Nepalese people dressed in their finest, and music and dancing displays interspersed with thunderous firecrackers.

If the noisy, colourful and crowded streets get a bit tiring, a rest at a local cafe for a plate of Tibetan momos, meat or vegetable-filled dumplings, is the way to end a perfect day.

One of the main attractions in the district is the "Toy Train", the 61cm narrow-gauge Himalayan Railway that can be booked from Ghum station to Darjeeling, a journey of about half an hour.

It winds its way seemingly inches away from roadside houses and shops as it toots its way to Darjeeling. Built in 1879, it has a diesel service but the steam trains, themselves of 1889-1925 vintage, are a sight for train buffs, and people come from all over the world to travel on this unique World Heritage-listed railway.

At Glenburn a tea factory visit is a must, and the passionate estate manager, Parveez Hussain, will take you through the entire process, from picking to drinking, surprising all on the tour with the colour, taste and annual variety of tea available; rather like wine tasting, the experience can only add to your knowledge. Now we have to follow Parveez's advice - NEVER put milk in tea.

Walking tours are as short or long as you wish; through the estate to a village to meet locals, or down to the campsite at the river Rangeet, where fishing is available, or simply sit in a comfy chair and listen to the birds and the river rushing by; stay overnight if you wish, we did and were lulled to sleep by the river, and awakened to a sumptuous breakfast set out on the lawn outside by the water's edge.

Walk on a bit further to the 61m-long suspension bridge that takes you into the neighbouring State of Sikkim, and the border village of Manjitar.

If action is what you're after, try, as we did, parasailing from Kalimpong in Sikkim, two-and-a-half hours away from Glenburn, breathtaking views of the hills and, on a clear day, majestic Mt Kanchenjunga, third-highest peak in the world, looms on the northern horizon.

Kalimpong also has a vibrant weekend market and the spices section is particularly colourful, with exotic scents to tantalise.

Our stay was in the Camellia Suite, with a direct view from the balcony of Mt Kanchenjunga, best seen in the early morning as the sun hits the peaks, the experience made even better by being served "bed tea", a piping hot pot of estate tea poured into delicate bone china cups, accompanied by a plate of freshly baked biscuits; just a starter before breakfast.

My comment to the manager was that I would be going home at least a couple of kilos heavier than when I arrived.

If you feel like doing no more than sitting back with a good book, the Burra Bungalow veranda is the ideal spot, or you can book a massage, or a facial and a pedicure to complete the day.

Cooking classes are also available; I tried making momos, Tibetan dumplings filled with chicken, pork, or vegetables. Each one is a slightly different shape so that you know which is which but mine all turned out completely different, so dinner that night was a lottery for everyone.

Glenburn can be visited all year round, with October through December the best mountain viewing season. July is the greenest, when swirling mist in the valleys below adds to a feeling of remoteness.

If hiking is your interest, from two hours to a full day is available, with a guide, a picnic lunch, and the option of a vehicle for the return on the longer walks if needed.

The area abounds in bird life, and large, beautifully marked butterflies flit through the undergrowth; the guides are a wealth of knowledge about the local flora and fauna.

We left Glenburn happy and contented, such places are good for the soul and a haven in a hectic world; if a break from modern life is what you need, Glenburn Tea Estate in the Himalayan foothills could be the ideal choice.

glenburnteaestate.com.