Get into the swing at St Andrews

High hedged walls to block inquisitive eyes. Old men in tweed coats. Limousine parking. Ten-year waiting lists for memberships that cost the sale of a kidney.

Mention elite golf courses and the stereotypes leap to mind. Even the greatest movie depicting the sport, Caddyshack, poked fun at the exclusive manner of many country clubs.

So dare to think of Scotland's St Andrews, the home of golf, and the visions of a secluded estate kept away from the gaze of the commonfolk raise apprehension about whether a visit would be worth the rigmarole.

That would be as big a mistake as slicing too much on the 17th tee of the Old Course.

Though St Andrews draws visitors in their millions, the average chap can get as much access to the courses as a billionaire. Such an opportunity to get up close and personal doesn't exist at Wimbledon, the MCG or Yankee Stadium.

But St Andrews is more than just a good walk spoiled, to borrow from Mark Twain's famous criticism of golf.

Indeed the surrounds of the Old, New and Jubilee courses have ample appeal to all generations.

Even the youngest can have the experience of playing on the St Andrews course, not far from the infamous Swilcan Bridge, for just £1 ($1.80). The Himalayas is the world's number-one putt-putt course, offering 27 holes on a practice green. Named for its undulations and rises that test the stroke-makers, here anyone can buy their spot and feel a part of history.

Technically, though, anyone can walk on the Old Course itself, which has hosted rounds since the early 1400s. Under an Act of Parliament, the estate is controlled by the St Andrews Links Trust, which means that in some ways the tees, fairways and holes are public open space. Instead of pricey sports cars, the course is often bordered by tourist buses.

You can walk the course at your peril. A lot of people want to follow the paths trod by Bobby Jones, Sam Snead, Peter Thomson, Kel Nagle, Jack Nicklaus, Seve Ballesteros, Nick Faldo and Tiger Woods, which means for six days a week (the course is closed on Sundays), anyone can play the most sought-after 18 holes on the planet.

You can apply for the daily ballot, strive to fill up a group of four or turn up and hope for a cancellation and a round will cost £160 ($295). If you can't get on the Old Course, there are 10 others, including nearby Dukes, which are also worth a skill test. Just beware of the wind.

Those who like the finer things in life can also indulge. The stuffy Royal and Ancient Golf Club, the body that controls the game, is based near the 18th green of the Old Course and the establishment thrives within its walls. Only recently its members voted to allow women to join for the first time in its 260-year history.

The company linked to the Old Course Hotel Golf Resort and Spa has renovated the Hamilton Grand building, which oversees the final hole. Exclusive apartments have sweeping views of the estate and the West Sands beach, which is also famous for being the scene of the Great Britain team training in the movie Chariots of Fire.

The building, the backdrop for British Opens played on the Old Course, was renovated five years ago by the Kohler Company into premier accommodation. The view it offers from sixth-floor balcony could well be the best in world golf.

A visit to St Andrews isn't just about hitting a little ball into a glorified divot, although lunch at the delightful nearby Hams and Hames Grill might incorporate a golfing theme.

Non-golfers can enjoy the Old Course Hotel spa.

Or everyone can meet at the course-side Jigger Inn, in a building that dates from the 1850s, which customarily serves a winning pint to the winner of British Opens held at the links.

A little walk up the road from the course reveals a town laced with history and the impact of its university.

St Andrews Castle mightn't be what it once was but it provides a fascinating insight into the architecture of times past and the frequent battles between Scotland and England. A lot less remains of the nearby St Andrew's Cathedral, believed to have been erected around 1130.

The University of St Andrews was founded between 1410-13 and has 18 academic schools, contained in a raft of historical buildings. The colleges were famously once home to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge.

The entire town is easily accessible on foot, and this is the best way to explore so the atmosphere of the East Fife region can be fully absorbed.

But for this trek around the town streets, you won't need a caddy to carry your bag.