Welcome to WA's great outdoors

I should have recognised those neatly raked swirls in sandy gravel around the bush toilet. The patterns are as familiar as the friendly smile beneath a shady hat - it's John Lee, volunteer campground host.

This is Crossing Pool in Millstream-Chichester National Park but we first met John and Christine at Stokes Inlet, seven months and 2000km ago. I join them at their serene site alongside the Fortescue River. John and Christine are prime examples of hosts who take pride in their work; they acknowledge the well-raked sites with a laugh.

"Whatever needs to be done, we go and do it," Mrs Lee says with a smile. "We're not idle people. We've learnt skills I never knew I had. And it keeps us active and busy."

The Lees have been "walking Australia's national parks" for three years, including two years' hosting, starting at Osprey Bay in Cape Range National Park.

Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) induction included remote area first-aid. "They have other courses available, like working with indigenous people," Ms Lee adds. "A lot of these places are joint management between DEC and locals. Firefighting - basic skills, really, when you are out in the bush."

"We learn the history," says Mr Lee. "Up on the Gibb River, King Edward, we were introduced to where all the Aboriginal artwork was. It's an opportunity to broaden the interests of what's happening here to overseas visitors, instead of just coming to a place and not understanding what their surroundings are."

Campground hosts become skilled at people management. That might involve moving individuals away from indigenous sites if they display a lack of respect. DEC sets clear guidelines for managing conflict, requiring hosts to back off at a certain point.

"Once we've got to that level, we're obliged to walk away," says Mr Lee. "Then the rangers come in. But we're first on the scene, almost like first aid." Any challenges have been resolved with the rangers' full support. "They don't hesitate to bring the police in," says Mr Lee, "and that's a good thing.

"Western Australia's parks are absolutely huge - and well managed. The system is very, very good here but they need frontline people on the ground and that's what the campground hosts are."

The Lees are keen to promote low-impact camping.

"One of our pet hates . . . has been illegal campsites and cleaning up after people," says Mrs Lee. But the unpleasant duties are countered by other benefits.

"Living in beautiful places and constantly meeting people who are so varied. They want to have a fantastic time, so, you know, it makes a great environment."

Campground hosts are often involved with environmental projects. The Lees survey dazzling black-and-yellow dragonflies, an indicator that the river is healthy. They've also helped tag turtles in Bell Gorge and net birds at Broome.

After several days, we reluctantly leave this oasis and inspect the nearby Miliyanha campground. An art-adorned fifth wheeler (an articulated caravan) creates a diversion.

"Stop the van! I think it's those friends we met near Derby . . ."

I'm out mid-sentence, camera dangling, as a tall man steps forward. It's not the face I was expecting but we're soon chatting with jovial campground hosts Jim Skinner and Jeanette Calver.

On retirement, they spent seven years travelling in a Swagman 4WD Isuzu truck and this Australian-built fifth wheeler is the replacement following an accident.

This is the couple's 11th consecutive month of campground hosting, which they've been doing intermittently since 2003. They returned east for a year or two, then dawdled west to work - Purnululu, Cape Le Grand, Coral Bay and the Stirling Ranges.

"The senior ranger had only two words - 'yes, please'," Mr Skinner says of the Stirlings. "It's one of the parks that don't get a lot of help. We ended up spending four months." Their assistance included fox baiting, checking traps, tagging and releasing possums.

"That was the wildflower season," says Ms Calver, who was shown where all the orchids were. "We love the bush, and so giving us an opportunity to stay in places for a length of time is very valuable. My hobby has become photography, mainly with wildflowers and birds."

The couple follow DEC guidelines with a light hand on the rein. "You've got to remember the people ... want to enjoy themselves," says Mr Skinner.

"At the same time they can't go mad. We had a guy come in here with a dog. So, hey, straight out. That's just not on. But most people are pretty good."

Mr Skinner thanks the national parks for giving retirees an interest, and keeping them out of retirement homes. "It keeps us younger. You've got maintenance and things to do which you've got to think about, using your head."

We drive south, remembering genial hosts we met at Cape Range National Park, beside Ningaloo Reef, five months earlier. We were initiated into Mesa campground's pre-sunset happy hour and campers juggled chairs and glasses over to the casual conversation circle.

Everyone rested peacefully next morning, until a feral gust of wind flipped our flimsy awning up and over the van in a mangled mess, poles and pegs included. Hosts and helpers rushed from four corners but the damage was terminal. We soothed our ruffled camping spirit with several snorkelling trips.

Five days extended to 11; we farewelled Mesa and were swept away in a mini-whirlwind, vowing to return on the trip back.

And so we do. Campground hosts Greg and Adelle George are near the end of their season, when we touch down at Mesa in late October, eager to revisit treasures and pleasures of the cape and reef. We dine with our hosts on their last night; I wander over to chat next morning.

Mrs George was already a volunteer (a Friend of North Lake) when they met DEC hosts at Stokes Inlet, and thought it might be a good idea to get a bit further involved.

The couple trained and applied for a vacancy, landing at Mesa. The contact with international backpackers and travellers has proved a real bonus.

"Meeting lots of new (and friendly) people, and the stories they come up with of where they've been and what they're doing," says Mr George. "Backpackers are exciting to talk to because they've seen more of Australia than we have."

Ms George mentions a German traveller. "He had never been fishing before. Greg gave (hooks and gear) to them, and then when he went down and caught that fish yesterday, he was jumping out of his skin! And the younger ones - if they haven't seen a whale and we tell them where to go, or a turtle, that's really great."

They discuss campsites, beaches, gorges. As Ms George points out, once you are in a place, you talk to people and learn lots more. The couple give a parting message of encouragement to potential campground hosts: don't hold back, definitely get out there and do it.

A few days later we meet our new hosts, Marg and Ray Fischer. Local and interstate visitors mingle happily with international travellers throughout WA. Camaraderie is complete at cheerful bush campsites hosted by friendly and helpful volunteers.

FACT FILE

For further information on campground hosting, go to Community and Education, Volunteer Programs, on the DEC website: www.dec.wa.gov.au.

Inductions and training commence March 2011. Millstream-Chichester National Park is in the remote Pilbara region. Stokes National Park is in the South Coast region, east of Albany, west of Esperance. Cape Range National Park is on the North West Cape Peninsula, near Exmouth. Ningaloo Marine Park runs from Red Bluff in the south to the North West Cape.

'We love the bush, and so giving us an opportunity to stay in places for a length of time is very valuable.'