Surf's up far from the madding crowd
Bali, Island of the Gods and sods, is not so much booming as bursting, thanks to millions of annual visitors. At times it feels like half of them are with you in the surf along the Kuta- Legian-Seminyak beach stretch. And they're all hustling for the same wave you're after. Then add numerous hot, young Balinese locals, plus scores of surf school "graduates", and you know it's time to flee this surf mosh. Hit the road either west or east to hunt down these less-crowded Bali surf spots.
CANGGU
Some 4km north-west along the same shoreline as Kuta you'll find the village of Canggu. It's pronounced Chang-goo - or "Chang-gone" because of its increasing development. This used to be a nondescript dormitory settlement with rippling rice fields, a seafront temple and good surf; an ideal place for a long stay.
In recent years expat villas and resorts have gobbled up the rice fields and its restaurants are fast becoming the place to be "seen" for those who fear invisibility.
But the surf's still good. There are three main breaks and numerous peaks around the end- of-the-road spot known as Echo Beach, with lefts and rights breaking over both reef and sand bottoms.
There can be something for almost everyone, though beginners should never underestimate the hefty punch in these waves. Canggu is "surf-able" all year but, like many places, early mornings deliver the best conditions as well as thinner crowds before the arrival of the hangover crew.
BALIAN
Drive west from Denpasar for an hour and a half on the narrow trunk road that heads to Java. En route you run the gauntlet of motorcycles, geese, temple processions, buses, giant trucks and rickety handcarts - sometimes all at once, and in double-overtaking mode.
Surviving that, you'll welcome the turn-off sign to the tranquil river-mouth village of Balian that sits about 2km off the highway.
It's a surfing-oriented community but completely lacks the boganeering groups and jagged-edge night vibe of Kuta's tourist purgatory. Here you're right back in rural Bali, with black sand beaches, driftwood days and gado-gado for breakfast, plus reasonably-priced small resorts, losmens and cafes.
The surf is a long, rolling left, and a steeper right, breaking far out in front of the river mouth. The paddle can be long but crowds are not too dense and the vibe is friendly.
MEDEWI
Continue west from Balian on the same (and only) highway for another half hour - you're now about 80km from Denpasar - and you reach Medewi ("Meh-day-we"). The surf here is a long, easy, left-hand point wave that's popular but still less crowded than the celebrated reef tubes of Bukit Peninsula or Kuta's beach breaks.
Far down the line on this wave is a good place for "L-plate" surfers, as long as they don't drop in. The point works in the wet and dry seasons but gets busy at weekends with plenty of keen locals, as well as visiting surfers.
Medewi's volcanic beach is not special but there are small cafes, board repair shops and the substantial Medewi Beach Cottages resort on the point. No raging bars or nightclub scene here.
KERAMAS
On Bali's east coast, about half an hour north of Sanur, the village of Keramas is still a place of Hindu temples, duck herders, rice fields and beach pebble pickers.
The main wave here is a consistent right-hander breaking over a rock reef bottom that can generate good tube rides. Lots of fun but powerful. As the morning wears on, the break quickly becomes crowded (and more competitive) with surfers arriving from elsewhere. The wave height can vary from small to way overhead and it can break year round, conditions depending.
There are several lodges, villas and losmens at Keramas, the most celebrated being the stylish beachfront Komune resort.
NUSA LEMBONGAN
If there just isn't enough room on Bali for you and those millions of other visitors, head to Benoa harbour and catch a ride over to Nusa Lembongan.
This small island 20km east of Bali has snoozy villages, good accommodation, seaweed farms and the occasional cockfight (once is enough). There's excellent scuba diving and consistent reef surf.
Among the best-known waves are Playgrounds (as the name suggests, a good fun wave) and the shallow thrills of Lacerations (named by accident - many of them). The most popular wave is a fast, right-hand tube called Shipwrecks, which can get busy. All these breaks are tide-dependant so come to Lembongan for several relaxing days rather than a few urgent hours.
