Fairytale alpine magic
Following our guide as he heads off-piste, we are the first group to carve a path in the deep, fresh snow that has blanketed the mountains for the past two days.
Looking every which way, it resembles an enormous snow disco - millions of pretty flakes glittering in the sun, basking beneath the clear, blue skies.
The only other tracks to be found are those of rabbits and foxes, some providing evidence in the sugar-like powder of an unpleasant confrontation the night before.
But the atmosphere is serene and pristine as we breathe in the crisp mountain air heading down a previously untrodden path.
It is difficult to explain to Europeans the fairytale magic the snow-laden mountains bring to a West Australian. It's probably like Europeans trying to explain the awe of first seeing the beauty of our deep red dirt against a backdrop of crystal blue water in the North West of our State.
This particular adventure in the peaks of the Swiss Alps is not actually skiing but a snowshoe hike with our trusty mountain guide Martin Nellen.
My experiences in the snow have always been confined to skiing and there is sometimes a smug implication among skiers that you are taking a lame option when you choose activities such as hiking.
But this is no easy way out.
Snowshoes, which basically work exactly like thongs and flip flop at the back while also providing some grip, are strapped to your weatherproof boots. Surprisingly, it feels far less awkward than expected.
Starting off with a spectacular view of the amazing Aletsch Glacier at our launching point, it appears we are going to follow a slightly boring, well-worn path down a small slope.
But we are quickly guided off the path and the steep descent begins.
Trekking off-piste between the posted runs, the group is completely uninterrupted by the holiday-makers on their skis and snowboards.
At times we are plunged thigh-deep in snow, so deep the two poles we were handed, and internally scoffed at, become essential.
Every person in our group falls at some point - the slopes are too steep and the snow too dense.
After trekking along some hairy, narrow paths - the fall on each side is perilous at times - it seems the walk will become slightly more relaxed as we hit the lower trails of the Aletsch Forest.
Not so. There are huge pine trees, fallen branches dripping with pretty icicles, and streams to navigate. Random holes appear and collapse underneath me and the only thing I can do is warn those following in my path.
Martin shows a deep respect for the mountains and the UNESCO World Heritage site in which he is privileged to work. He can tell you about the birds, trees and the wildlife in the protected reservation park. And he cannot hide the sadness in his voice when he talks about the gradual but devastating erosion of the biggest glacier in the Alps.
Towards the end of the three-hour trek - which costs 45 Swiss francs ($44) per person - a couple of picturesque and inviting chalets come into view.
Here we find warm gluhwein, beer, coffee and schnapps, soup, burgers and traditional fare. All with a view to die for and blankets laid out on the chairs dotted across an open balcony. There is also the bonus of feeling we have earned it.
The ski slopes which surround the Aletsch Glacier provide a family-friendly environment to enjoy the Alps, with the ski season running from December until the end of April.
At Bettmeralp, the roads are car-free and the only vehicles are those needed to transfer luggage from the cable car which brings visitors to their destination, and snow taxis which take them from one village to another. You can ski right up to your door and children are safely pulled about on the back of sledges (more on that later).
Access to the village is generally by cable car, providing a panoramic view of the mountains.
After a virtual white-out upon arrival, the first morning of finding our ski legs is challenging. I feel a failure until lunchtime, when I learn that even the advanced skiers in our group have been overcome with nausea as they try to navigate the unfamiliar slopes, unable to see as far as their own outstretched hand.
After a gondola ride to meet for lunch at the Bettmerhorn Mountain Restaurant, perched at a height of 2650m with panoramic views of the glacier, the group is rewarded with a transformation.
By afternoon, the snow has stopped falling, the clouds begin to lift and it is a perfect time to tackle some intermediate slopes for a few sunny hours. The vertigo of the morning is forgotten and the excitement of trying new runs takes over.
It is enough to justify stopping at a small bar on the way back to Chalet-Hotel Bettmerhof to enjoy apres ski with the instructors, who speak of the mountains with a genuine love, undiminished by a lifetime of family holidays.
Evenings at the family-run hotel provide a cosy, homely retreat. Among the fare on offer in the small restaurant are deer ragout, walliser cholera (a potato-cheese strudel) and raclette, accompanied by a choice of lovely regional wines.
After a couple of days, it is time to explore a new village. The efficient train and bus trip to Saas-Fee takes only a morning and passes by quaint villages and beautiful lakes set against the backdrop of endless snow-capped mountains.
Saas-Fee is a much bigger village and buzzing with activity.
But March is an ideal time to be visiting the mountains. During our trip in the last week of the month there are none of the crowds during school or public holidays. Given the height of the villages, there is plenty of snow and it is warmer - to the point of catching a bit of sunburn and peeling off layers of thermals throughout the day.
There is easy access to lifts and cable cars, and the lines which can build up around Christmas time have disappeared. There are even times you can jag the privilege of a run on a slope without another skier in sight.
Saas-Fee - where you can ski 10 months of the year - is an interesting village to explore. There is a heritage section where you will find carefully maintained wooden and stone huts which were built some 300 years ago, an adventure world for families and plenty to choose from in terms of dining, shopping, bars and accommodation.
We stay at the Golfhotel Saaserhof, which provides elegant four-star rooms with balconies which have you waking to a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains. The hotel also has the advantage of being perched right on the edge of the village and you can ski right to your door. After a full day on the slopes, avoiding the need to traipse through the streets with your skis aloft your shoulder, your boots heavy after a day of activity, is a welcome relief.
But the first afternoon at Saas-Fee provides a chance for another new snow activity - sledging. A trip to the sledging run from Hannig with some European travel companions provides some laughs in itself. My Australian counterpart and I always thought it was called "sledding" - we explain, with colourful examples, what "sledging" means in Aussie slang.
The start of the sledging run is actually a little frightening, but everybody settles in and the race is on - Europeans and Australians alike putting to good use the other type of "sledging" as we head back to Saas-Fee.
The food on offer in Saas-Fee is amazing - crepes, schnitzels and cauliflower soup among my favourites. A traditional cheese fondue with potatoes is an experience at the Resort AG, a classic chalet-style restaurant where the owner takes to the floor to entertain you with music during the meal.
As a known cheese lover, I am surprised to find the meat fondue we are treated to the following night at our hotel is even more enjoyable, with a tasty selection of meats, including horse, accompanied by a wall full of spices.
The final day of the trip is spent on the slopes - the sun is shining and it is warm enough to just plop down in the snow, lie back and take in the views.
After heading high up the mountains - a 3500m climb which even includes an underground subway built below the slopes - lunch is enjoyed at the world's highest revolving restaurant.
Then it is time to get serious and spend our last afternoon tackling some more difficult runs.
The 3500m run down, with lots of red runs and even a couple of short blacks, is challenging. It takes us a couple of hours of solid skiing, eventually rewarded with a thirst-quenching beer or two at a lively bar in the village. It is a perfect end to a week in the Alps.
Getting from Perth to Switzerland to be able to enjoy the magic of the Alps is an inevitably long and tiring journey.
But a short stopover in Zurich can rejuvenate the energy levels before heading to the mountains, as well as providing a chance to explore the pretty city and the cobbled streets which line the river Limmat.
In March, Zurich can turn on some spectacularly sunny, warm days. There are small bars, restaurants and stalls emitting the tempting aroma of sizzling bratwurst.
As I joined the hordes of locals down at the river banks to enjoy the balmy weather, there was the amazing view of the not-too-distant Alps - the tantalising promise of the snow adventures that awaited.
FACT FILE
Qatar Airways, Emirates and Qantas all fly to Zurich from Perth with one stop. qatarairways.com, emirates.com and qantas.com.
Rail is a comfortable and efficient way for getting to and from the Alps, offering some spectacular views while in transit. A Swiss Pass, which can span four days to a month, allows for unlimited travel on the Swiss rail, bus and boat network and also provides entry to more than 400 museums and exhibitions. myswitzerland.com/rail and raileurope.com.au.
Ski passes can be bought for various lengths of stay and regions. Specials are often available for families and off-season. bettmeralp.ch and saas-fee.ch.
Chalet-Hotel Bettmerhof offers cosy, comfortable three-star accommodation, with personal service a focus at the family-run business. bettmerhof.ch.
Golfhotel Saaserhof is an elegant, four-star resort perched conveniently at the foot of the Saas-Fee slopes. saaserhof.ch.
For information on visiting Switzerland, go to myswitzerland.com.
Amanda Banks visited the Swiss Alps as a guest of Switzerland Tourism.
