Charming spot to take the waters
Rain fell a century ago and percolated through cracks in the rock of the Hanmer Mountains until it was 2km down. Over 50 years, it was heated deep in our molten planet to 54C, and rose again over another half century.
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And people are now lying in that mineralised thermal water in the pools of Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa on this alpine afternoon.
Hanmer Springs is just over an hour-and-a-half's drive north-west from Christchurch, and people have been soaking in its thermal springs for both relaxation and recuperation for many years - long before the term "wellness" was coined.
Even before early European settler John Williams noticed a strange fog rising in 1859, the Maori called this place "sacred waters" - Waitapu. People started coming from far away to the mineral springs but it was only in 1878 that John Fry, proprietor of Jollie's Pass Hotel, built a changing shed. The springs officially opened in 1883 and were originally run by the hospital board, and used as a rehabilitation centre for soldiers after both world wars.
But in 1969, Hanmer residents asked for, and were handed, the running of the place. The Hanmer Springs Thermal Pool Development Association was formed and the water became known around the world and, it is said, shares unusual qualities with the mineral waters of only one other place, in Hungary.
The water contains sulphur, sodium chloride, calcium carbonates, magnesium and potassium - and then there is just the therapeutic effect of a body being in warm water. Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa has 15 outdoor, variously at temperatures from 34C-42C and the trick, I am assured, is to soak in hotter pools then move to cooler ones to let the body "rest". (It is meat, after all.) Three sulphur pools are completely natural with unfiltered, silky thermal water.
About 540,000 visitors a year come to these pools and I suspect many of them find relaxation not only in the water, but in chatting with strangers. It's that sort of place, where people sit and soak, and conversation easily sparks up.
"This is the time when people really meet New Zealanders," says Scott Callaway, marketing manager for Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spas, and the wider Hurunui region. "The locals will tell them which restaurants are good to eat in, good wines to buy. It's a great place to let the barriers down and chat."
More technically he explains that the water in springs like Rotorua on New Zealand's North Island is heated by volcanic action, whereas the water at Hanmer Springs is heated by the friction of geological plates along the fault line under the Southern Alps, which make up the spine of South Island.
This has given me something to think about for the past hour while the spa's therapist has been working her magic with a full-body massage ($120). The spa has massages which range from this to deep tissue, "unwind your back", pregnancy massage and the popular couples' room.
Body treatments include the "body cocktail" - choose your flavour of pina colada, mojito or cosmopolitan at $140 for 60 minutes.
There are facials ranging from "red berry deep exfoliation" to the "alpine aqua refresher", manicures and pedicures and full luxury packages with a mix of the treatments on offer.
Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa has developed its own range of products for use in treatments, which are also on sale.
Back outside, most people seem just happy to be in the warm water in cool air.
But there's a separate "fun area" with a water slide and lazy river, to keep the more animated busy with aqua play. "It's the fun part of what we do," new friend Scott says. "It's not the core of what we do but an additional offering."
Other guests might sit in the cafe for a while and the pools are open from 10am until 9pm, and those in the know come for the cool evening and lighting effects from 7-9pm.
The thermal pools are most definitely the drawcard that has made Hanmer Springs what it is - a very comfortable, vibrant town to visit, with high quality across its facilities for visitors.
As Scott puts it, this is a town of 900 residents, with 5000 visitor beds and 21 restaurants, so the whole town is involved in tourism. It is also year-round - as good for summer visits, with quad biking. jet boating, rafting and bungee jumping, as for experiencing the alpine snow. And it is "authentically New Zealand", as 65 per cent of its visitors are Kiwis, half of them from the immediate region of Canterbury.
Rae and Mike Baigent's The St James premium accommodation in Hanmer Springs is a good example of the quality you get here.
Not only do they have deluxe studios, executive spa studios, two- bedroom and the self-contained one-bedroom I am staying in (beautifully designed and finished, with heating, a big contemporary styled bathroom and very comfortable bed with quality bedding) but they offer a warm welcome and personal attention. The Hanmer touch.
The same attitude comes through when we dine at Chantellinis restaurant (parmesan custard with golden kumara and cauliflower for entree, and local products like North Canterbury venison, Canter Valley duck breast, local lamb or local Angus beef for main course). Chantellinis is in a restored 1930s home, the place having as much charm as the people who welcome you.
Not only does Scott welcome me but so does his dog, Hugo Boss. And so we end up walking down a quiet, blossom-lined street and into the adjacent Hanmer Forest, which is laced not only with paths, but with off-road cycle tracks. It costs about $45 a day to hire a mountain bike and there are also guided tours.
We don't need to do that. We just wend our way along clearly marked trails, which vary from a few minutes to an hour or so, through the spruces, pines and larches.
"Hanmer Springs is all about relaxing," reflects Scott as little Hugo Boss bowls past us, trips over a stick, rolls over and stands looking rather puzzled. "And having fun."
FACT FILE
Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa: hanmersprings.co.nz.
Hanmer Springs i-Site visitor centre: visithanmersprings.co.nz and +64 03 315 0020.
The St James has studios from $190 a night, one-bedroom apartments from $240 a night and two-bedroom options from $365 a night. thestjames.co.nz.
Hurunui Tourism: visithurunui.co.nz.
Tourism New Zealand: newzealand.com.
Air New Zealand: airnewzealand.co.nz.
