Advertisement

Guide to island hopping in Greece

Of Greece’s 3000 islands, 170 are inhabited, and most have an individual character and charm. 

So, where to start with a guide? By picking representatives.

By showing their personality and flavour, we can give a taste of Greek island life — from a busy tourist and nightlife island like Mykonos, to arty and historic Patmos, quiet Amorgos, which is still off the main tourist trail and Hydra, which is often thought of as just a day trip from Athens, but a pretty island still with no cars or bikes.

The islands make up 20 per cent of the total area of Greece — an indented coastline of more than 15,000km, with natural harbours, coves, pretty towns and the constant presence of ancient history.

And the Mediterranean climate adds to the scene, of course, with hot, dry summers — like the one under way.

For starters, we look at the many ways you can get around.

ISLAND HOPPING BY FERRY

Island hopping isn't quite what it used to be - there are a lot of ferries now but it requires some planning. It isn't much of a plan to hop on the boat to the first island on your list and hope to connect to the rest. Sometimes the only way is back through Pireaus, Athens' port.

Hellenic Seaways and Blue Star Ferries cover most of the islands. Ferries vary from smaller, fast hydroplaning craft to big, slower vessels. Even booking with the same ferry line, the actual boat you end up on can double the travel time.

You can find all ferry schedules at www.greek-islands- ferries.gr.

There are plenty of ferries and seats but it is best to book in advance. I tried this with the booking websites without much success and ended up using a local travel agent in Athens, who I recommend. Mavridis Toula is originally Australian but has been living in Greece for 20 years and can be contacted at Colonial Travel on toula@colonialtravel.gr or +30 210 331 0331.

Another agent is George Pandelopoulos of Academy Travel on info@academytravelgreece.com or +30 213 0056 374. These are just two of many travel agents in Greece who will help book ferries. Hotel concierges may also be of assistance.

As a starting point, easy islands to base an itinerary round are Mykonos, Santorini, Paros, Lesvos, Naxos, Sifnos, Ios, Rhodes and Crete.

ISLAND HOPPING BY AIR

Flying between some islands is an option. For example, Olympic Airways and Aegean Airlines fly several times a day from Athens to many islands, including Santorini, Mykonos, Kastellorizo, Milos, Paros, Kos, Rhodes and Syros. There are connecting flights between islands. As a gauge, an Olympic flight from Athens to Santorini takes 25 minutes and is from about $121 (89 euro) one way.

Aegean Airlines is a Star Alliance member. Athens to Mykonos is from about $81 (60 euro) one way.

SAIL A YACHT

There are a number of ways to go yachting in Greece - if competent and confident, hire a yacht and just take off; hire a yacht with a skipper; hire a yacht and sail in company; or book a cabin on a bigger, fully crewed yacht. "Bareboat, skippered or fully crewed" are phrases used a lot, relating to these.

The charter season starts as early as March when the air temperature starts to warm up, having a stabilising effect on the patterns. Usually before the end of May the dominant Azores High has effect, the Euro-Asian High losing influence. That is the shift cruising sailors are usually waiting for, bringing stable weather patterns.

The peak season is July and August but locals say October is good - the Azores High usually becomes less dominant late in the month and in November. I have just returned, and there were good sailing conditions at the end of May and early June.

Bareboating requires planning and experience, but gives privacy. A good way round this might be to join a flotilla - safely sailing in a fleet of yachts between pre-arranged ports.

I watched little fleets taking off in various places in the mornings and a big advantage is having a berth arranged for your arrival. You skipper your own yacht, but there is a flotilla leader. Another upside is that you get to know the others in the fleet.

Then there are assisted bareboat charters - options are having a skipper, hostess, cook as well as an instructor (maybe just for the first day, as a refresher).

Good travel agents should be able to advise you and there are plenty of Greek yacht charter websites.

A useful place to start reading is www.sailingissues.com/yacht-charters-guide.html.

Another phrase used is a "gulet cruise" - a private yacht charter on a local-style boat often called caiques in Greece these days.

They are classic twin-masted Aegean sailing vessels (called trehandiri).

Guests can expect a comfortable cabin, home-cooked food, local wines and beers, a skipper and crew and the ability to go places that big ships can't.

CRUISING

The Greek islands were very much the heartland of cruising. So many islands, calm water, great weather, harbours, waterside cafes. Brilliant. Many cruise lines, including Costa and Celebrity, have Greek islands itineraries.

On this trip, I saw some of the Greek Islands under sail - and it couldn't have been a better way to do it.

The Aegean Sea has a rich sailing history and Star Clipper is a true sailing ship. There are a number of itineraries.

See travel agents and www.starclippers.com or call 1300 362 599.

Stephen Scourfield travelled courtesy of Emirates and Star Clippers.