Eatery you cant refuse
Bigger is not necessarily better and there is no better example than Northbridge's newest recruit, No Mafia. The tiny hole-in-the-wall bar-cum- restaurant on William Street is an oasis of fabulous southern Italian fare and wine.
It's little wonder since head chef Sam McKinzen (who also oversees The Precinct) is banging the pots and pans while Emma Ferguson (ex Apple Daily) is a gun front of house and brainchild behind the drinking side of the biz.
Trips to southern Italy with partner Dan Morris cemented her idea to serve smaller, 100ml pours, so that two glasses over lunch (three with a twisted arm) was not going to have you thinking twice about driving home, and also keeps the cost down. There are 23 wines by the glass ranging from $6.50 to $15. Nice one.
Although the list is predominantly Italian there is a smattering of WA wines to cover all bases.
Perched high on one of its two outdoor tables, there's something exciting and uber-cosmopolitan about dining on a footpath, despite the risk of a handbag nab - this is Northbridge after all. If outside is not your speed or the high tables too far to fall there are comfy booths inside.
Mushrooms are one of my favourite food groups and No Mafia's seasonal mushies of oyster, king oyster, Swiss brown and enoki with dried olives on a bed of sweetcorn puree ($18) is award-winning stuff. The mushrooms are cooked au point and are predominantly left alone so as to be able to savour their earthy flavour. Eggplant parmi ($20) is a must-try. A flavour bomb, the eggplant is coated in basil pesto and drizzled in parmesan cream. Delish. Two heavy-ish dishes deserve some greenery and the fresher-than-fresh asparagus, zucchini and sugar snap salad ($17) is just the ticket. Gently coated in a white balsamic, it's the cucumber relish that skyrockets it to hero-status.
Desserts are also worth a looksee. A crispy ricotta-stuffed cannoli ($12) is drizzled in warm chocolate and a nice way to finish but it's the fried ricotta fritters ($5 each but you need at least three each because they are so good) which are the epitome of sweet, warm flavour. Yummy.
All dishes are designed to share and you can eat as light - think local swordfish crudo, colatura, parsley and capers - ($18) or as heavy as you wish - the pork loin with pistachio paste and pink peppercorns ($26) sounds particularly enticing and hearty.
These guys have got the right idea. Simple, beautifully cooked food without too much going on, a succinct wine list that not only complements the cuisine but is also sympathetic to our hot weather and WA wine tastes, plus front-of-house staff who know a thing or two about customer service. Winning on all fronts. Well done.
No Mafia *
Address * 189 William Street, Northbridge
Email * info@nomafia.com.au
Open * Lunch and dinner seven days
The buzz * Hole-in-the-wall bar-cum resto with great urban vibe, top-notch southern Italian fare and kick-ass wine list
14.5/20
There's
something
exciting and
uber-cosmopolitan about dining on a footpath.
