The Sip #65 James Squire Hop Thief 7

Long-time beer drinker and The Sip editor Ross Lewis puts some of Australia's top drops to the test.

Catch up with other beers on The Sip Archive

Hop Thief is back in the James Squire stable. Or is it?

The 2015 incarnation of the beer isn’t the same as it used to be. Yet that is the idea. Indeed, that is its appeal.

Each year the James Squire team, led by Head Brewer Chris Sheehan, use a different combination of hops in Hop Thief.

Every version fulfils the American Pale Ale style but there are subtle differences in taste.

In 2014 it was Simcoe and Columbus cones that were the hops of choice. There was a pine tinge to Hop Thief 6.

However, Hop Thief 7 has more stone fruit in aroma and taste from the Galaxy variety and Mosaic provides a grass element.

In comparison it is as if Sheehan and crew have thrown parts of a fruit salad into the previous recipe. This is a step up from No.6 because of the tongue tingling flavour.

It is ironic that Galaxy, an Australian-developed hop, should be such an uplifting ingredient for the American Pale Ale style.

Sheehan sources his hops around this time each year and believes the change in choices have added great appeal to the brew’s dynasty.

“The evolution of the Hop Thief Varietal Series has been an interesting and very diverse flavour journey; so to pick a favourite is really difficult,” Sheehan told The Sip.

“I’m really proud of what the team has accomplished with Hop Thief 7 so it has to be a strong contender.

“At the end of the day it’s like choosing your favourite child, almost impossible! Although everyone loves the baby of the family and this one is no exception.”

It is significant that in the legend of the original James Squire he was alleged to have stolen horehound (a hop-like herb) to make the country’s first beer 200 years ago.

Sheehan doesn’t have that problem. He now just has to decide what hops to use in Hop Thief 8.

“The hop harvest is actually taking place as we speak right up until Easter, so we will be looking for the finest hops available to make Hop Thief 8 a great beer,” Sheehan said.

“We’ve tried to discuss it a couple times but the team keep getting distracted by the Hop Thief 7 in our hands.

“I think our drinkers enjoy exploring each new iteration of the beer, while knowing that it’s still available all year round.

“Each release finds its own band of fans, which makes it harder for us to raise the bar! Of course we love the challenge and you can rely on the team to push it higher.”

The Sip Snip
Hop Thief 7
Brewer: James Squire
Style: American Pale Ale
Alcohol content: 5%
Standard drinks: 1.4
Bitterness: 40IBU
Bottles: 345ml
Estimated calories: 171
The Sip Tip (rating): Always keep one in the fridge.

Average prices: $4 a bottle, $19 a six-pack.