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Taste over volume in bumper truffle season

Headline: Text: < None > Caption: GEN Truffle season. Chef Scott Brannigan (left) with Liam O'Neil of Artisan Foods and Manjimup truffle grower Gavin Booth at Bread In Common, Fremantle. Picture. Iain Gillespie/The West Australian

WA truffle growers are experiencing an unusually early start to the season this year, with deliveries to Perth's top chefs and stores expected to begin in the next few days, two to three weeks earlier than in previous years.

Manjimup truffle growers believe it will be a bumper season - one where taste trumps volume.

They say this year's truncated summer growing period and long maturation in the ground will deliver "once in a decade flavour and aroma".

"At this time last year I had pulled just 300g out of the ground," truffle grower Gavin Booth said yesterday.

"This year, I've already harvested 7kg. The longer maturation this year means the flavour and perfume will probably be the best we've ever had."

TRUFFLES ARE MORE THAN JUST AN INDULGENCE

Manjimup's 30 growers are expecting a 6.8 tonne haul this year, 95 per cent of which will be freighted by air to European and North American markets.

"Yields will be down on projections for this year because of the short summer growing season," Mr Booth said.

"But with more trees producing more truffles, volume will still be up on previous years."

Truffle grower and restaurateur David Coomer said the 2015 harvest could be the best ever.

"It's definitely an early start this year," he said. "From what I've seen of some of the early truffles, they're absolutely awesome.

"This is just year three of production for us, so early days. But this year we're expecting between six and nine kilos."

Mr Coomer said he would leave his truffles in the ground for about another week to optimise growth and flavour.

Veteran grower Al Blakers said he would begin his rounds next week, delivering the prized black fungus to chefs across Perth.

"This year is business as usual for us," he said.

"We're just starting to take product out of the ground now."

Manjimup is the acknowledged capital of truffle farming in Australia, producing more than 80 per cent of the nation's harvest.

The Manjimup black truffle has carved out a considerable reputation in the world's top kitchens, with chefs such as Britain's Heston Blumenthal hailing them as the best in the southern hemisphere.