A model walks the runway for the Jayson Brunsdon show. Picture: Getty Images

Yesterday Camilla & Marc celebrated the 10th year of their label and Aurelio Costarella celebrated 30 years in the business. Today it was Jayson Brunsdon's turn to commemorate his longevity.

It's been 10 years since he established his label, which has become known for its ladylike elegance and dressed-up, feminine charm.

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Retrospective start to Fashion Week

Brunsdon has always been a great fan of Audrey Hepburn; his show notes for this season featured Hepburn's visage circa Funny Face. Why mess with a new muse when you have someone as perfectly good as Audrey guiding your inner creative light?

The Brunsdon woman is part 50s ingenue, part sophisticated society lady. She sports cat's eye glasses and loves a cocktail frock made from duchesse satin or in a floral jacquard print, and she'll wear dainty gloves with her silk georgette frock. But she'll pair it with silver metallic slingback flats - she won't totter about on super-high heels if it makes her look uncomfortable or inelegant.

If there is trend to have emerged so far at fashion week, it isn't a colour, a silhouette or a skirt length. Rather, it's the fact that designers are acknowledging the codes that they established their labels with - revisiting their greatest hits, but freshening them up for a new season so that they don't seem too repetitive.

Costarella did it yesterday with his goddess gowns and corset tops. Today, Ellery, Flannel and Brunsdon worked their "signature" looks to generally good effect. Brunsdon's references, as they usually are, were deeply rooted in the elegance of 1950s and 1960s fashion. You won't find a pair of low-slung denims or a midriff-baring crop top among this lot; these are dressy clothes for dressy women. Brunsdon's muse is a chic woman at a sophisticated function sipping a cocktail and wowing the room with her fabulous frock.

Highlights included a sculptural bolero jacket, a sexy black vinyl pencil skirt, a beautiful silver silk opera coat and a number of dresses that recalled the silhouette and volume of Cristobal Balenciaga in his heyday.

In contrast to Brunsdon's dressiness, Flannel designer Kristy Lawrence excels at the art of casual, bohemian dressing with a bit of a hippy vibe (I must say, today was the first time that I have heard Dark Side of the Moon-era Pink Floyd as the soundtrack to a show).

Again, nothing was radically different here. Flannel hasn't leapt into significantly new territory - today's collection was more of a refinement and re-statement of what the label is best known for.

The collection was named Sheltering Sky - after Paul Bowles' Tangier-set novel - and there was certainly a North African feeling to the khaki and ochre-coloured dhoti pants, the floaty tiered white lace dresses, the caramel leathers, silk kaftans and lightweight beige hooded duffle coats. The models sported a mix of casual flat sandals and knee-high gladiator shoes that crisscrossed over the calf; belts were tasselled and plaited. There was a bit of a Stevie Nicks thing going on, mixed with a Moroccan safari mood.

Lawrence introduced a few menswear pieces into the collection this time around, consisting primarily of drop-crotch pants in earthy colours paired with relaxed shirting in cotton and linen. The Flannel man isn't the sort of guy to care about sharp suiting: he's more of a romantic, nomadic traveller.

An Ellery show always creates an extra level of buzz: the edgy venues, the front-row celebs and the cream-of-the-crop models. Today's show was no different: hundreds of people crammed into a disused old building on Castlereagh Street eagerly awaiting the first outfit.

And once again, Ellery stuck to the program with her trademark exaggerated volume, flared pants and edgy accessories. Bustier tops emerged out of heavy satin skirts, long sleeveless white coats sported enormous lapels, micro-shorts flashed a lot of leg and shoulders on tunic dresses were exaggerated. The show finished with a selection of long, dramatic gowns featuring capped sleeves or furry vests that added a tactile, touch-me element.

Showing later tonight are Toni Maticevski, Manning Cartell and New Zealand designer Kate Sylvester.

The West Australian

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