No limits, no law at Rudy s bar
No limits, no law at Rudy's bar. Picture: Steve Pennells/The West Australian

"Anything you want, you can get here on the island, especially at Rudy's".

The French diving instructor flicks back a stray dreadlock and takes another sip of his magic champignon milkshake.

"I prefer to mix it with Fanta," he says. "It tastes better. Coke is no good."

It is 7am. The sun has risen over the Gili islands and the clouds part, teasing a glimpse of the lush green hills of Lombok across the water.

"And you don't have to worry because there are no police on the island, it is safe," he says.

The Frenchman explains that he hasn't been at the bar all night. He woke up at 4am and couldn't go back to sleep so he thought he would go to Rudy's.

Everyone comes to Rudy's at some time. The shack and its surrounding tables which make up the bar are open 24 hours a day, as much as a hangout for the bar staff - a bunch of young men from the archipelago's west - and their mates, who lounge around, drink and deal drugs to anyone game enough or drunk enough to be interested.

"Marijuana," they offer first.

"Maybe cocaine?"

A tourist on the edge of the bar rolls a joint and starts smoking it with his girlfriend.

By the tables close to the water, a couple of backpackers passed out and spent the night because they couldn't move or because a bench here makes cheaper accommodation than any of the hotels or villas.

The mood is carefree. It is hard to believe this is the same place that allegedly served a fatal drink to Perth man Liam Davies just seven days earlier.

Then again, maybe it's not so hard to imagine.

In the early hours of yesterday and through the night before, bar staff and customers seemed oblivious, dismissive and ultimately angry when asked about the incident that had supposedly ended a 19-year-old man's life.

"What are you trying to say," one threatened.

The bar is not much to look at - a beach shack surrounded by tables.

But it is one of the most popular spots on Gili Trawangan, boasting that it has the best magic mushrooms on the island.

It throws wild parties at weekends that spill out on to the sandy street and block the path of the horse-drawn carts which - with bikes - serve as the island's only transport.

When _The West Australian _ visited this week, staff mixed "shroom shakes" in blenders. Behind the counter, spirit mixes such as rum and Coke and vodka and tonic use cheaper, local versions.

It was one of these that Mr Davies is believed to have ordered and one which his friends believe was laced with the methanol that killed him.

The Gili islands - which have a growing reputation as a party destination on par with the famous Full Moon parties of Thailand - seem to exist in a policing vacuum. There is no permanent police presence on Gili Trawangan.

Officers typically travel by boat from mainland Lombok only if they are called.

As a result, there is barely any attempt to hide rampant drug use.

While magic mushrooms are not illegal in Indonesia, other drugs freely available across the island are.

When the Frenchman is asked about methanol poisoning, he says he knew of a case four years ago when some expats died from tainted bottles of vodka at a party they had thrown.

"But that's all changed. It's all OK now," he says.

"Still, some crazy stuff happens."

The West Australian

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