The West

Denmark s secret wave
Denmark's secret wave

For just a few weeks each year, when the big swells roll out of the Southern Ocean to thunder against the WA coast, monsters of salt and foam begin to stir from a usually placid stretch of deep water near Denmark.

Its existence is a jealously guarded secret that surfers the world over beg locals not to share. It is a break that those rare few in the know call "the right".

Ben Rufus, 30, is one of the few Denmark surfers who knows where to find "the right", named because it's the best right- breaking wave going.

"There's always people wanting to come and surf it, from all over the world," Mr Rufus said.

"We try to keep it quiet. We'd prefer to keep these waves to ourselves than have to share them with everyone. It's only there a few weeks a year. When it's not going, it's just nothing."

About three weeks ago, with conditions just right, surf photographer Russell Ord captured Mr Rufus and his mates surfing "the right".

Mr Rufus said surfers used jetskis to get to the spot, in deep water a few kilometres offshore, and get on to the fast-breaking waves.

Mr Rufus said the wave had come close to killing him about five years ago when it dealt him a blow that snapped his leg and left him with compression fractures across several vertebrae.

He was out of the water for a year. Despite the risks, Mr Rufus said he would keep riding the wave. "It's the best rush in the world," he said. "I'm addicted."

The West Australian

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