Jumeirah Port Sóller, Mallorca — grown up glamour near charming Deia

The Jumeirah hotel’s staff are one of its strong points  (Jumeirah hotel)
The Jumeirah hotel’s staff are one of its strong points (Jumeirah hotel)

Where is it?

Located on the island’s north-west coast, the Jumeirah is perched atop a cliff overlooking the Port de Sóller Bay. The charming port town, which has a good selection of shops and restaurants, is accessible by a free hourly shuttle run by the hotel (from 10am to 11pm) or a 10-minute walk. The hotel is a 35-minute drive from Palma and Palma airport and a 25-minute drive up the coast from the picturesque town of Deia.

Style

The Jumeirah group acquired the pre-existing hotel 11 years ago and extended and refurbished it. The property is a sprawling 1km long and the buildings trickle almost down the cliffside, over nine different elevation levels.

The decor is simple and clean lined. White, grey and beige dominate the colour palette and the furniture is generally international in styling, luxurious and of excellent quality. While the interior decor may lack local character it offers superlative comfort and a peaceful ambience, which makes for a very relaxing stay.

Jumeirah is staggered down the cliffs (Jumeirah hotel)
Jumeirah is staggered down the cliffs (Jumeirah hotel)

Food & drink

The hotel has three dining venues, plus two poolside restaurants each serving a daytime menu of excellent salads, poke bowls, ice cream and snacks.

Mediterranean restaurant Cap Roig is the venue for breakfast, a spoiling affair comprising an extensive buffet – pastries, cereals, charcuterie and cheese, fruit, yoghurts, cava et al – and an a la carte menu of classics done very well; from eggs florentine to french toast. The pancakes are a must. A roving trolley circles the tables each morning offering churros and fresh chocolate sauce on the house.

By night, Cap Roig is a romantic dinner spot with outdoor seating under a leafy canopy overlooking the sea. Choose from classic paella dishes or Wagyu beef with Mallorcan black truffle, or select a fish from the fresh fish bar and have it salt baked and served table side. Vegetarians should ask to see the meat-free menu, which has extra options, all of which were fabulous. There’s live music Monday to Friday and a barbecue night on Mondays. The local Mallorcan red wine came by the glass and was so good we had several.

For the most spectacular sunset vista, head up for a drink at the Sunset Lounge which has 360-degree views out over the sea and the port. The menu here is a Japanese-Peruvian fusion of small plates – think ceviche, sushi rolls and gyozas – all of which were very good. A DJ plays Euro dance music (fairly loudly) every evening making this one better for a vibey dinner rather than a cosy date night.

Lastly there is Es Fanals, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, which wasn’t yet open when we visited but focuses on “0 km Balearic cooking” and has simple whitewashed interiors, rattan furniture and a few outdoor tables with stunning views over the infinity pool out to sea.

Facilities

The hotel has three stunning pools. The adults-only infinity pool sits at the highest level of the property. Its design is minimal and modern with white aluminium loungers with turquoise cushions, white parasols and buttons for service on every table. The staff are super attentive, the food is light and delicious and the views are exceptional – get there early to secure a lounger looking out to sea. The equally lovely family pool is located at the opposite end of the property and decorated in the same minimal style.

The third pool is located inside the impressive hotel spa, and comes with submerged loungers, water jets and gorgeous views over the mountains. The spa itself has 10 treatment rooms, a steam, sauna and hydropool plus a gym with mountain views. Yoga classes and personal training can be organised when desired.

There’s a womenswear boutique located in the spa reception stocking mid-range boho resortwear sourced in Bali, and an upmarket menswear boutique in the main hotel lobby run by Eleventy, an offshoot brand of Loro Piana.

There is a kids club located near the spa with outdoor and indoor play areas.

The exceptional views from Jumeirah (Jumeirah hotel)
The exceptional views from Jumeirah (Jumeirah hotel)

Service

While the decor is somewhat faceless, it’s the stellar, smiley service that really gives the hotel its character. On arrival a white-jacketed bellboy whisks your car off to the valet parking and takes your luggage to the room, while you are presented with a fresh orange juice on the terrace. Each room comes with a gift of stylish and typically Mallorcan straw hats, and a daily water restock. Rooms are cleaned immaculately each morning and there’s a nightly turndown service where slippers and chocolates are placed by the bed.

Cartons of welcome water were given on arrival at the pool, where staff also circulated with trays of complimentary smoothie shots and free SPF was available at the bar.

The mostly young and very amenable staff were motivated to ensure guests needs were catered for. From organising a treasure hunt for children on arrival, to arranging a private dinner on the terrace by reception which overlooks Cap Roig restaurant (we spotted what looked like a proposal dinner happening when we were there), one sensed there was a terrific general manager motivating the team behind the scenes.

Extracurricular

The focus here is very much on unwinding and relaxing into doing very little, but should you crave a more active day then Deia, located a 25-minute drive down the coast, is well worth a day trip. Check out the home (now museum) of British poet and author Robert Graves and have lunch on Cala Deia in Ca’s Patró March, the restaurant where BBC series The Night Manager filmed several scenes.

Which room?

There are a multitude of room categories, which becomes a bit confusing. All rooms come with his and hers sinks, a shower and bath, balconies and king-size beds. The difference in size between our junior suite and the entry-level deluxe category was minimal (although the balcony was much bigger). The main decision to make is whether you want to look out over the mountains or the sea, the latter of which is probably preferable. Some entry-level rooms come with a sea view (at no extra cost) so it’s worth checking in advance which you’re getting.

One of the pools at Jumeirah (Jumeirah hotel)
One of the pools at Jumeirah (Jumeirah hotel)

Best for...

The hotel was full of couples when we visited, mostly English and aged over 35. It definitely caters well to those seeking a relaxing, romantic retreat but children are very much welcome.

Details

Rooms start at €500 per night in low season; jumeirah.com or booking.com

The hotel is closed from the end of October to March 19, 2024.