From my luxury tent in the Satao Elerai safari camp, just outside Kenya's Amboseli National Park, I look at the 5895m Mt Kilimanjaro across the border in Tanzania.
Snow usually stretches down the sides of Africa's highest mountain but has receded to a thin cap. Land clearing has changed the climate and Kenya is suffering from drought. One of Kenya's most popular national parks, the 392sqkm Amboseli lies 240km south-east of Nairobi, close to the Tanzania border. It offers one of Kenya's most spectacular displays of wildlife.
But food and water are scarce and many animals look like bags of bones in the choking dust. From park roads we see too many elephant, buffalo, zebra and other carcasses, some with vultures feasting on them.
The safari camp has been operating for more than two years and employs a number of local Masai villagers. About 30 guests can stay in nine luxury tents and five lodge suites. There's a welcoming central lounge, bar and dining area which looks down on a spot-lit waterhole. During breakfast, we watch a giraffe spreadeagled awkwardly to drink at the waterhole.
The Masai are tall, proud, semi-nomads, legendary for their warrior skills and single-handed bravery in fights with wild animals. They are essentially cattle people and believe ownership of the animals is their divine right.
Guide Kim Pierce has worked with Satao Elerai safari camp, part-owned by the local Masai people, to create Satao Elerai Community and Wildlife Trust. Its aim is to help the local tribe capitalise on tourism and find an alternative to their drought-affected pastoralist tradition.
Kim takes groups of Satao Elerai guests on a fascinating tour of a nearby Masai village or manyatta which has a market selling beadwork to the tourists and derives income from the tours.
In colourful Masai costumes, the villagers perform dances of welcome, including a "jumping" dance.
Soko, the village medicine man, distinctive in his feather headgear, has taught himself some English and is the interpreter. He shows us tree bark which he says will cure anything from a stomach ache to malaria.
The village chief, Kitayon Putani, shows us his thatched home made by his two wives from bent poles and sticks and plastered with cow dung.
In this patriarchal society the men look after the cattle; the women build the homes, cook and look after the children and the goats. Each evening the chief visits each family to discuss the day's events.
Villagers show us how they make fire by rubbing sticks together and lighting dried elephant dung. They introduce us to a game akin to Chinese checkers but played with bowls and stones.
And the children sing for us. Some of them walk two and a half hours to school. Kim hopes to find funds to build a school in the village.
The visit has added an absorbing dimension to our wild game experience at Elerai. This evening we will have traditional safari camp sundowners out in the bush where we can watch the sun go down behind the mighty Mt Kilimanjaro.
For a moment, at least, some wispy clouds hide the top of Kili, but alas they are not rain clouds.