Unique life under the waves
Standing on an ugly steel and concrete structure several metres above the ocean, it's hard to imagine that beneath the surface is an underwater scene that is almost unrivalled worldwide.
This is Exmouth's Navy Pier in WA and it has been rated the sixth best scuba dive in the world for its sheer abundance and diversity of marine life.
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CAPE RANGE
Built in 1964 to receive parts to build the US naval communication station which is still operational nearby, the Navy Pier has become a home for so much marine life because of its seclusion.
Fishing was banned from the pier years ago, boat traffic is restricted and the area is closed off to the general public because it is defence land.
Marine life has been left to flourish and more than 80 species of fish thrive under the pier.
Even from on the pier, massive schools of fish can be seen thronging in the water, giving a glimpse of the extraordinary marine environment.
With a giant entry step, divers plunge 3m from the pier into the ocean. Looking down as soon as I'm in the water, a turtle swims slowly under my feet and I know this is going be good.
As we descend, the scale of life we see is staggering. It is difficult to know where to look and which way to go.
Huge schools of fish seem to stare at us as they shelter from the current behind the pier's pylons, which are completely covered with coral and creatures such as starfish and nudibranchs.
Flutefish whizz past while brightly coloured bannerfish, angelfish and lionfish, as well as many more species, busy themselves around the coral.
Huge grouper fish hide behind the pylons or lie on the ocean bed with their mouths agape. Moray eels poke their open-mouthed heads out of crevices.
During a night dive, a nocturnal grey nurse shark curiously swims right up to me to investigate who is visiting its favourite spot.
White-tipped reef sharks rest in groups on the seabed and wobbegong sharks disguise themselves among the algae and coral.
A few metres away from the pier itself, there is another underwater colony centred on a cluster of bombies. More sea creatures - sea urchins, octopuses and toadfish - lie on the coral or watch us from their hiding places.
With a maximum depth of 11m, the Navy Pier is an easy dive though it is dependent on tides and currents. Visibility is rarely great because of tidal movements although we were lucky enough to get 12 metres of viz which was the best it had been for a year.
The beauty of diving at the Navy Pier is that such is the abundance of marine life you can dive it numerous times - or four as I did - and encounter different creatures on every dive.
Divers would be advised to book ahead for a Navy Pier dive. The Australian Defence Department issues a licence to enter the Navy Pier to only one dive operator - currently Ningaloo Whaleshark-n-Dive - and only 20 divers are allowed on to the pier at one time.
For a different experience, the Muiron Islands lie north of the North West Cape. The group of three islands is the northern extension of Cape Range and its fringing reefs are the most northerly tip of the Ningaloo Reef.
The islands' surroundings of sandy beaches and fringing reef make ideal conditions for turtle nesting.
Muiron Islands' beaches are internationally important rookeries for the rare loggerhead turtles, as well as green, hawksbill and flatback turtles.
The Muiron Islands are also part of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage area. Whales rest their calves in the waters between the Muiron Islands and Cape Range peninsula, as well as in Exmouth Gulf which was not included in the World Heritage area - much to the dismay of conservationists.
The hour-long crossing from Exmouth can be rough for those who suffer from seasickness because of strong currents, big swells and high winds.
The nausea-inducing swells and winds made divers jump off the boat quickly when we arrived at our first dive spot.
We were at Cod Spot on the west side of the islands, which has a maximum depth of 17m and where a huge variety of cod and other fish live among beautiful colourful tree-like corals.
Our second dive was at a more sheltered spot called North East Bombies, which is a fabulous location with beautiful coral gardens spreading out as far as the eye can see. A countless number of exotic-looking fish busy themselves around their neighbourhood in these "coral cities".
Christmas tree worms, sea urchins, giant clams and sea stars cling to the rocks and coral, while crocodile fish and toadfish lurk on the sea bed.
At a maximum depth of 10m, the North East Bombies is an easy dive yet one of the most memorable for its hard and soft coral and huge array of fish.
After lunch, the boat took us to one of Muiron Islands' bays for snorkelling where divers were reminded that staying on the surface can sometimes be as satisfying as going under with scuba.
Again, the ocean floor was littered with bombies which were surrounded by fish.
One snorkeler spotted a dugong, which quickly swam away.
A turtle swam slowly past while a big blue-spotted stingray lay motionless on the bottom.
But Ningaloo Reef itself is unique for its accessibility.
You don't have to make an hour-long boat journey or dive off man-made structures to see the marine life.
You can just wade out from the beach with your snorkel gear.
There are several renowned snorkelling spots which give good access to Ningaloo Reef.
Turquoise Bay has a well-known drift snorkel which carries you over the coral. Oyster Stacks is a shallow snorkel even at high tide and allows you to get up close and personal with fish.
While Turquoise Bay and Oysters Stacks are the busiest spots and good for snorkellers with some experience and fitness because of the currents, there is a lesser visited bay which is a favourite with locals.
Lakeside involves a 400m walk down the beach from the carpark and you have to swim 150m out to deeper water to reach the reef. But it's well worth the effort.
There are huge bombies covered in soft coral and anemones while pufferfish, octopuses and numerous beautiful and brightly coloured fish mill about the underwater structures.
Ningaloo Reef has numerous spots where teeming marine life attracts the scuba diver.
Lighthouse Bay is a protected marine sanctuary between the tip of the cape and Ningaloo Reef where coral outcrops attract a huge amount of marine life at depths of 10-14m.
Local dive operators in Exmouth and Coral Bay also take divers out to various spots along Ningaloo Reef - from shallow 8m dives inside the lagoon to deeper dives at the back of the reef.
Aside from being dependent on the weather, local dive companies do not make trips every day so it is worth divers allowing themselves enough time to be flexible.
Boat trips leaving from Exmouth and Coral Bay will take passengers out to the deeper water beyond the reef to swim with Ningaloo's most famous visitors - the whale sharks.
Our boat was lucky enough to find a whale shark close to the back of the reef, which meant we had the opportunity to see turtles, manta rays and dolphins in shallower water while swimming with the whale shark.
Our 4m whale shark was an inquisitive young male who circled and swam towards snorkellers to get a better look at them.
Swimmers almost played tag with the gentle giant as they ducked out of his way to avoid bumping into him.
Swimming in the crystal clear royal blue water and being checked out by the world's biggest fish while looking down at turtles, brightly coloured fish and coral left me in no doubt that the Ningaloo Coast is one of the world's most special places.
Angela Pownall's trip was supported by Sea Breeze Resort, Ningaloo Whaleshark-n-Dive, Exmouth Tours and Exmouth Dive Centre.
