Hanoi a city steeped in past

Bustling Hanoi, with its colonial echoes, charms Grant Taylor.

Among the many things to do in bustling Hanoi, people watching should be high on everyone's list. And the best place to do it is right in the heart of the city, along the banks of the pretty Hoan Kiem Lake.

Every morning from sunrise, locals of all ages gather here to start their day with a variety of weird and wonderful exercise routines that will keep you entertained for hours.

Younger men with chiselled bodies belt out endless reps of sit-ups and show off their martial arts moves, while nearby, groups of older women practise the graceful art of fan-dancing to the soothing tones of traditional music.

Across the lake, another big group gathers every morning for an open-air ballroom dancing class that has couples sashaying along the busy footpaths.

And in amongst them all are the power walkers, tai chi practitioners, joggers and badminton players who jostle for space along the edge of the lake.

The banks are also a meeting place for the elderly, who come to catch up and debate the issues of the day, providing lovers of portrait photography with an endless array of facial expressions and gestures.

Though Vietnam is still a communist country, tourism is now a welcome source of income in Hanoi. But the industry is still in its infancy and is yet to spoil the unique charm that makes this city and its people so intriguing.

Hanoi is a sprawling city, devoid of high-rise development and still steeped in the architectural history of its colonial past.

Reminders of the French occupation can be found all over the city in the decaying facades that line the narrow streets, particularly in the old quarter.

It is here that tourists flock to shop, with whole streets dedicated to the sale of just one item, such as shoes, belts or jewellery.

The area is also rich in restaurants with the best ones packed with locals, who you will have to battle for a seat.

Traditional cyclo rides are a cheap way to get around. But walking is still the best way to take in the city. You may find, though, that crossing the road can be a little daunting with gaps a rarity in the incessant flow of scooters pulsing along the city's arteries.

The simple rule is to step slowly and deliberately on to the road, so the traffic can flow around you as you walk. It is a little scary at first, but you soon get the hang of it - otherwise, just follow a local.

Reminders of Vietnam's Soviet-era influences also abound throughout Hanoi. Despite the slow creep of capitalism into daily life, giant statues of Lenin or Marx still keep watch over random street corners.

Equally pervasive is the image of the country's spiritual leader, the late Ho Chi Minh, whose portrait still hangs in every shop or home.

Uncle Ho, as the locals like to call him, died in 1969, long before the Vietnam War ended, and his body is now on permanent display in an imposing mausoleum alongside the modest home he occupied until his death. The queues for a glimpse of his embalmed corpse stretch for hundreds of metres, mainly locals who line up to pay their respects.

The war is still a source of sorrow and pride for the Vietnamese but there is no sense of any resentment towards the legions of Western tourists leading the new invasion.

Hanoi's Military History Museum is an easy walk from the old quarter and provides an intriguing perspective on the conflict, as seen through Vietnamese eyes.

On display are a range of captured American tanks and aircraft, which give the museum a strange, zoo-like feel as you walk among their pens.

Also worth a visit is Hanoi's Museum of Ethnology, which showcases the cultures of Vietnam's 26 different ethnic minorities.

And there is one more thing you must try before you leave - a local delicacy called "egg coffee".

Egg yolks are whisked with Carnation milk into a foam, which is then combined with strong filtered coffee to form a thick, creamy and sweet breakfast treat.

Cafe 39, hidden down a laneway in the old quarter at 39 Nguyen Huu Huan, does it well. The upstairs alfresco area is also a great spot to sit and plan your day.

Grant Taylor travelled as a guest of World Expeditions.

FACT FILE

• World Expeditions' 11-day Bike, Hike and Kayak North Vietnam itinerary includes two nights in Hanoi before travelling into the countryside to stay with members of Vietnam's northern ethnic minorities, explore national parks by cycle and on foot, and kayak on Halong Bay, before returning to Hanoi. The tour costs from $2090 per person twin share including most meals, airport transfers in Vietnam, accommodation, kayak equipment, 21-gear bikes, a support vehicle for cycling days, sightseeing and entry fees, and an expert bilingual guide. worldexpeditions.com or 9486 9899.