New Zealand, new world
New Zealand is still a New World. You can be there in six hours, but be on a different planet a short drive from the airport.
More New Zealand:
You can see how life on earth began in hot, bubbling mud pools, you can almost feel dinosaurs roaming metres from you in a dense prehistoric jungle, you can be dwarfed by gigantic mountains, glaciers and waterfalls, or you can seek thrills that come as fast and as hard as you can handle. You can do all this and more while enjoying marvellous hospitality, terrific fresh local foods and world-class beverages. We decided to spend a few summer weeks sampling a little of what New Zealand has to offer.
In short, our 24 day trip followed this itinerary:
Fly Perth to Auckland. Drive to Bay of Islands - Auckland - Rotorua - Napier - Wellington. Ferry to Picton. Drive to Nelson - Greymouth - Franz Josef Glacier - Wanaka - Queenstown - Te Anau - Dunedin - Lake Tekapo - Christchurch. Fly Christchurch - Auckland - Perth.
Each destination is approximately 300kms apart, with the drive taking between 3 to 4 hours. We stayed in mid-priced accommodation, from hotel units to Top 10 motor parks, in self-contained 2 bedroom units. A hired car was used on both North and South islands. We used a Travel Money prepaid credit card and booked most tours online before departure.
A flight of 6 hours is just about the limit for a four-year-old. Without a sleep, that is. The cabin crew on our Air New Zealand flight were extremely courteous and very willing to assist - especially when a whole series of seat entertainment systems would not work.
On landing at Auckland airport we discovered it takes a certain type of person to be behind the passport control desk - and any similarities to Peter Jackson's orcs are remarkably coincidental.
I purchased an in-car navigation system before leaving Perth and rented a map of New Zealand for 30 days - much cheaper than paying for one through the car rental company - and the unit worked very well to get us to our first destination, Whangarei, in the North Island. However, the unit decided our next port of call, Russell, could only be reached one way and so took us on a double vomit-inducing drive through hairpin bends and twisty single-lane side-of-mountain roads this side of a Volvo testing track.
Perhaps we should have consulted a hard-copy map - if we did, we could have seen that the best and most direct route used a car ferry from Opua - something the nav unit didn't realise existed.
Russell was once called 'Bloodthirsty Russell' and famed for its tavern brawls and drunken routs, but now is considered Romantic. The feel of the place is so laid back even an expert limbo dancer would feel at home. The shops, restaurants and streets really make you feel welcome. We took a ferry ride across the bay to Paihia (Pie Here) and then caught a local taxi to the historic Treaty House in Waitangi. The area, gifted to the Maori people by Lord Bledisloe before the land could be bought by an American merchant captain, was the location in 1840 when the Treaty of New Zealand (The Treaty of Waitangi) was signed by the British Government and the majority of North Island Maori chiefs, assisted by French Missionary Pompallier. The English weren't too happy the French were involved with the locals so they took the signed treaty and translated it in to English which they then made the south islander people sign. The new version it seems, re-worded the meaning of some agreements. The repercussions of this event are still discussed in the markets and pubs to this day. Treaty House is also home to the world's largest (and Guinness records certified) waka taua- a canoe built for 180 rowers and passengers. Made from 3 pieces of kauri pine, the canoe is held together by resin and rope - a remarkable feat of 1940's engineering.
The Bay of Islands can best be seen by helicopter, but if this is beyond your price range a sea cruise is the next best option. 4 hour cruises run from Paihia and Russell and you are almost guaranteed to see the local bottlenosed dolphins at play. The cruise takes you to the famous Hole-in-the-rock, 9 nautical miles from the Russell Jetty. The captain will weigh up the risks and if acceptable will guide your ship straight through the cavernous opening, first described by Captain Cook as 'though a cannon ball had gone right through' to make a 12m wide and 10m high tunnel in the volcanic rock island.
KeriKeri is best left off your travel schedule, unless you enjoy frenzied shopping along a circular strip. Bargains are all the go here, but we disliked the busyness of the place and decided the quiet lifestyle was more our thing. A good serve of freshly caught gurnard and chips was just what the juniors ordered.
Shopping at the local 4 Square store (our version of the IGA) is interesting. You can go down one aisle, select your cereal, then turn aisles and select your sauvignon blanc or carton of Tui lager. Rather than having separate liquor stores, all the local supermarkets are able to sell alcohol.
The Thermal Highway is a direct route from Auckland to a whole range of thermal experiences, each of them similar but special in their own way. On our arrival in Rotorua we immediately smelt the sulphur in the air, but after a few hours we quickly got used to it. The steam is a little rotten-egg smell, but not enough to induce an asthma attack in our susceptible family members. It does take a bit of getting used to seeing sulphuric smoke issue from the bare ground - but that is just one more experience to have in this prehistoric region.
The Lady Knox geyser will erupt for you each day at 10.15am. However, this eruption is induced by way of soap powder that breaks the surface tension of the below-ground water and causes a 10m high volcanic-like hot water eruption. Punctuality is the key here as tourists are in plentiful supply. Hell's Gate thermal spring is home to an astonishing range of mud baths, hot mud pools and geothermal activity. Each 'pit' has a name such as the Devil's Cauldron, which was named aptly as it would take only a little imagination to see Lucifer welcoming you to his lair among the steam and mud.
You can tour the thermal spring area which is well worth doing to see the most amazing lurid green lake. The lake is a colour which is hard to describe unless you've seen Slimey in Ghostbusters. There is even a hot water lake in the shape of Australia, but visitors should not enter any area as in some stages the ground is not stable enough to support weight and the water bubbles at well over 100 degrees celcious. Hell's Gate also provides an opportunity for you to experience wood carving. A master carver will guide you through the process of carving a design on to pine, which he will then coat and seal to enable you to bring the wood back home. This was a real highlight and included in the price of admission. If you plan to bathe in the mud pools you can at most thermal venues. We passed on this opportunity but instead gave our feet a treatment at the end of our Hell's Gate experience. Warm geothermal water is fed to a benched area where you can splosh and squelch to your heart's content.
The 'newest' thermal area open to the public is also the regions oldest and the home of an excellent walking experience, Waimangu. A total of 3.5 km of track is split in to 3 stages for those wanting to walk, and a tougher stage is available for those wanting a workout with their scenery. The tracks take you through what only can be described as the land time forgot - Spielbergs's dinosaurs would be truly at home in any area of the forest - palms, ferns and sulphur gas provide a truly unique experience. The blue lake is extraordinary - a silica suspension that provides a glorious turquoise sheen to the lake.
The final place, Te Puia, is the more tourist-friendly version of the thermal experience - though the tour is well worth it to listen to the guide - a local maori with specific knowledge of the area. Te Puia also has a geysey which erupts when it feels like it, so don't be too disappointed if it remains docile. There is a kiwi hut on the tour which enables you to see two birds in a purpose built enclosure. The light is a little dim but the kiwi don't seem to mind. Basket weaving and wood carving schools are located on the premises and you can watch as apprentices go through their paces under their instructors watchful eyes.
To Napier
Continuing along the thermal highway we arrived just outside the small town of Taupo, at the exciting Huka Falls. The water rushing through an 80m channel plunges down an 8m embankment at a rate that would fill 5 olympic swimming pools in under a minute. The water is crystal blue, with white foam everywhere. Adrenaline junkies can ride a speedboat to the mouth of the falls to feel the mist. Bike riders can cycle along the length of the river for an equally exciting thrill.
From Taupo the journey brings a new meaning to the term scenery. Mountains rise and fall like choppy waves on a sea, and the amount of Norfolk and kauri pine trees that are in regimented plantations are quite extraordinary. Equally astounding are the number of log trucks on the road, all carrying huge logs. Passing lanes are plenty, but it does take time to get used to the 100km/h speed limit when open roads are 110km/h in WA.
On a driving note, when the signs indicate a corner that should be taken at 65km/h, they actually mean it. Valleys and ravines are not to be taken lightly. Be careful and arrive safely at your destination.
Napier is titled as the Art Deco capital of New Zealand, and for good reason. Following a massive volcanic eruption in 1931 the town was flattened, and gained an extra 47m2 of valuable land from the sea. When deciding how to rebuild, the townsfolk chose Art Deco as the main theme and as a result the pastels, angular window lines and smooth curves of almost every main building is impressive. Pastels flow past your eye as you walk the streets and there are many arcade shops and malls that sell 1920's and 30's gowns, headpieces, chiselled suits and the like.
Another striking feature of Napier is the main ocean drive, cunningly called Marine Parade. This version runs for several kilometres and is lined on both sides but enormous, beautiful pine trees. People here clearly do not believe that a natural feature of this magnitude tames their ocean views.
The beach, when walked on, is unlike just about any other. River stones comprise the sand. Countless millions, all of different sizes stretch away for several kms. The brown volcanic sand of the Bay of Island beaches had lulled me in to a false sense of security about other New Zealand beaches. This struck me as more extraordinary than the steams of Rotorua as the image of a rocky beach is just not one I am used to.
Wellington
The Botanic Gardens are stunningly beautiful. Each path leads to an exquisite view of landscaping. Exotic, local and endangered plants are all available to see in truly beautiful settings. We took the cable car to get to the Gardens which is a cheap but exciting way to climb the mountain. The car departs from the centre of the city. Parking in wellington is not so easy to find unless you are willing to pay for it - $8.50 for two hours of street parking.
A tour of the capital city is not complete without a visit to Mt Victoria. A note of caution - when driving to the summit, slow down on your way up. Cars are allowed to park almost anywhere on the road which means drivers face some hairy moments when a tour bus comes down the mountain as there is less than a lane of space available.
A tour of parliament house is listed in a top 100 guide we found for New Zealanders as number 100. We found this terrifically entertaining thanks to our guide Andrew - who took us to all three main buildings including the floor of the single chamber. The New Zealanders use a german system of representation where locals cast two votes - one for the locality and one for a party. Each winning candidate is elected to form the single parliament that has a complete say in making laws.
We visited Wellington on a Friday - and from the amount of wine bars, pubs and long lunches going on clearly most workers in the city start their weekends early. Singles and those who are fancy free would have a fabulous time along the Oriental Bay road area.
To Picton
Last minute web fares can get you flying between Wellington and Nelson from $39 but as someone said the journey is the reward. Or at least a full sick bag is the reward for crossing Cook's passage in a 40 knot southerly and a 5m swell. The largest ferry in New Zealand was equal to the task but most of the passengers were not.
Nelson and Greymouth
Nelson is said to be the sunniest place in New Zealand, receiving more daylight hours than anywhere else. The beach was closed when we visited as the landslides (or 'slips' as they are called here) had ruptured some pipes and effluent was running in to the bay. The local beachside attractions include some terrific play equipment for the small people, and a model train enthusiasts paradise with actual ride-on trains for $1 per ride. A small animal farm also operates with inmates including the dinosauric tuatara and even a pair of mice-loving meerkats. Pigs, deer, lambs and an assortment of birds are waiting to be fed rice-bubbles. Do watch out for the passive-aggressive peahen.
The main shopping areas of Nelson are leafy, tree-lined avenues with some great local bars and enough zing for your shopping dollar. The cathedral is a good place to start your city-centre travels and to take in the local architecture. Gothic stone and high arches seem to compliment the 1970's ballroom dancing studios dotted around the town.
The drive to Greymouth is exceptionally scenic. Enormous mountains dive down to fast flowing rivers, and you need to be on your toes as you drive as there are a number of one-lane bridge passes and many 25km/h corners.
A recommended stop is the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki - a geological rock formation that looks just like several hundred pancakes on top of each other - repeated several hundred thousand times. There are also blowholes here but you have to be lucky enough to visit at high tide to see them in action. The rocks are down a windy, flax-lined avenue with several spectacular bridges and walkways lining the rocks overlooking the ocean.
Greymouth has suffered a fair amount of tragedy recently but the town is alive and vibrant. Tours of the area and mining operations are run regularly, gold can be panned at several locations and the stony beaches are well worth a visit. For us, the most memorable experience of all was discovered at Woods Creek, the site of gold diggings in 1865. 20kms out of town, the road takes you past a village, down a track, across some mining operations and you find yourself deep in a regenerated forest with a fantastic walk circuit including tunnels and nooks and crannies.
Driving to Franz Josef in the glacier region was quite a surprise. The one windy section, up and down Mount Hercules was forgotten by the long straight sections of road. Just 5 minutes from the town are walk trails to the glacier. One, of about an hour and a half, will take you to within 100m of the glacier as you follow waterfalls and a glacial stream. More adventurous people can hike up the glacier itself, but you need a good level of fitness and a full day time-wise.
No visit to the glacier region is complete without blowing the budget and booking a helicopter ride. There are about 4 companies that offer this service with ride prices ranging from $195 pp for a 20 minute glacier ride with a mountain/snow landing to a 40min $295 pp tour of both the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers and a trip around New Zealand's highest peak Mt Cook. The 20 minute ride was stunning. The whine of the blades was quickly drowned out by the 'wow' factor as the chopper rose effortlessly towards the sky. For sheer entertainment value this was worth the admission price but when we landed on the snow-capped mountain and crunched our Nikes through the snow we experienced a perfect blue-sky moment. Hours of enjoyment in just 20 minutes.
The drive to Wanaka is said to be amongst the most spectacular on the planet. That is not far off the mark. The scale of the mountains and the closeness of the road to the rivers, beach / cliff faces and ranges is hard to comprehend. Spectacular indeed. We stopped at a small stream for a break and this was truly marvellous - splashing around in a glacial runoff with lots of squeals of delight from adults and children alike. A must on the drive.
Wanaka is almost Tasmanian, but with scenery on a larger, grander scale. The mountain ranges close in on three sides, with a stunning (have I said that word before?) lake in the centre. Bars, cafes, restaurants line the shores but the atmosphere is really laid back - very cool but just a little pricey. Retire here if you can.
Queenstown has the same backdrop - amazing ranges, a great lake. Yet it is more upbeat than Wanaka - a big nightlife, plenty of tourists, more accommodation than it knows what to do with. This makes for a great mid 20's hangout, but for families it doesn't quite hit the mark.
Horse trekking
The Moke Lake trek is a three-hour ride among the Ben Lomond ranges, a series of spectacular peaks which feed the lake - an aptly designed horseshoe lake which has rentable hire sites for campers. I found my Mojo - well, Mojo was picked as my mount and he made all the hard decisions. All the horses are geldings, around the 7 year old mark and really enjoy novices on their backs. They all know their pecking order on the trek and it would take a very experienced rider to get them out of it. The two girls who work for the trekking company are very capable riders and really enjoy their work. They will give you a good introduction to horsemanship and have everyone matched to a mount - they all have great tempers and personalities. Ages and abilities for taking a trek range from 2 years to Clancy.
Gold fever was around in the 1860s and the last digger left in the 1960s. Cromwell was the epicentre of the rush in the area and 40 acres has been purchased by the government for preservation. Visitors can tour the site which includes a Chinese squatters village as well as tunnels dug by miners. Following the tour you can pan for your own gold, much of which is mica and fool's gold but several nuggets have been found.
The gondola and Skyline Restaurant offer the best views of Queenstown you can get without being in a helicopter or paraglider.
The idea for the lookout began in the 1960's with Bob's peak and an ambitious man who did not rest until he had a road put up to the top. Tragically Mr Hamilton was killed in a road accident but four men took over his shack at the top and began the Skyline company. The gondolas were started in the late 1960's and upgraded recently with a new Swedish chairlift motor. At an angle of 37 degrees and travelling over a distance of 700m it is a very impressive ride. The chairlift experience continues when you reach the summit if you choose to enjoy a luge ride. The luge is not the Cool Runnings variety but a low-riding go-kart. Two tracks are available for the descent, a scenic course and an advanced course. This is pricey but well worth the fun. Photo opportunities are few for the riders but you can purchase a snap of your Mark Webber face after the ride. My advice would be to have a friend take your picture then swap - much easier on your entertainment budget.
Te Anau
I have a theory that the bodywash / hair shampoo the motels provide in their bathrooms is scientifically matched to the local bug life's metabolism because every night without fail a small insect party took place on my ankles. Clearly the scent of the bodywash tells them where the action is. This theory is further enhanced by the sale of Tui bug repellent in large bottles on the counter of many motel receptions.
Milford Sound
The 2 hour drive from Te Anau (Tea Argh Now) is very scenic. The drive takes you right through a glacial area where there are too many spots for photos to choose from. Just before the Homer tunnel there is a fabulous spot for jumping on the snow and ice. The tunnel is 1500m long, and carved straight out of the rock - the roof is only lined in a few places. A traffic light system lets cars through on a one-way trip every 15 mins from 9am to 6pm.
Cruising Milford Sound is a must-do on every traveller's list. One word of caution though - the area receives on average 7m of rain each year, so cruising the fiord on a dry day is a rarity. There are amazing views all over the sound, from 155m permanent waterfalls to sea lions basking on rocks. 14,000 people each year walk the Milford Track - a 4 day adventure through the bush - which is clearly not for those seeking 5 star luxuries.
Glowworm caves==
The 6.7km cave system can only be reached by a lake ferry. The caves were lost for some time and re-discovered in the 1940s. In the late 1990's a series of walkways was installed and a visitors centre built. Tourists can visit 250m of the caves which includes a 50m punt-boat ride into pitch-black caverns to see the glowworms. There are underground waterfalls and cathedral caverns which are spectacular to see. For those wishing to spend 4 days underground and much of this underwater, you can scuba dive the cave system if you feel inclined.
==Dunedin
Dunedin is said to be the natural capital of New Zealand. The frequency of the bird droppings on the car windscreen back this up. The city buildings are striking not for their European architecture - the railway station is of Flemish design and well worth a visit, especially for the tiling and feature-lined ticket office windows - but more so for the emergency stairwells positioned on the street-facing walls.
The chocolate factory, located in the heart of Dunedin, has full length and shortened tours running each day. Visitors can see the different levels of the business in operation, from the first floor, which makes eggs and marshmallow treats, the second floor, which produces boxes of Roses, Favourites and Milk Tray, to the top floors which make jaffas and pebbles - a smartie-like confection we don't have in Australia.
There are a number of heritage homes in the city, but none which have quite the tragic tale that belongs to Larnach Castle. Built by a wealthy English banker, on land which he was advised to purchase by his 9 year old son, the castle (or manor house, as it has no true fortifications) was built over a sixteen year period in the late 1800's. In a twist worthy of a Shakespearean tale, the father committed suicide in Parliament and the son had an affair with his stepmother then also committed suicide. The estate was then challenged in court and split between all parties against the will of the father. Step in Spielberg.
The Royal Albatross centre is located on the headland of a 30km peninsula adjacent to the city of Dunedin. After Maori settlement 900 years ago wiped out the defenceless birds, the ravages of European colonisation saw the birds treated as curiosities. Following the visit of a heavily armed Russian warship in 1885, cannons and defences were set up on the breeding grounds of the southern albatross and all bird habitat was destroyed. In the 1940's a single bird returned, and since that visit more birds have called the site home. A specially designed viewing hide has been set up at the top of the headland and all birds are monitored around the clock. After leaving the nest, young albatross spend 5 years at sea before returning to land to find a mate. Eggs are laid every second year and the centre ensures the nesting sites are protected. On a side note, when at sea an albatross feeds on dead squid that have floated to the surface of the ocean, but will scoop up any object it sees floating. Toothbrushes, bottlecaps, tabletennis balls, plastic toys - all have been recovered from a young albatross that tried to swallow this regurgitated meal from a well-meaning parent. Boaties - do not throw your waste out at sea!
The peninsula is also home to a number of breeding pairs of yellow-eyed penguins. These little birds are more commonly found closer to the Antarctic circle but 5000 have made the south east corner of New Zealand home. Located on private property, the Penguin Place receives no government funding but relies entirely on visitors to keep the centre and penguin hospital operating. Several hundred metres of hide tunnels have been dug through the dunes on the farm and walkways made for penguin-spotters to see the birds in their daily lives. On our tour we met a juvenile male with a sore foot 400m from the beach - our guide said he was returning to find his birthplace.
Lake Tekapo
Lake Tekapo is a turquoise lake nestled between a series of impressive mountains. The water contains a suspension of rock 'flour', which gives the lake its milky blue colour. A wide range of watersports are conducted on the lake and in the winter months a ski area adds attraction.
An astronomical observatory is located on top of nearby Mt John. Tours are available at night although in the summer months these start at 10.30pm as the sun sets late in the western skies. The visitor can drive to the summit and enjoy the views as well as a drink in the Astro Café on the summit.
Christchurch
Christchurch is a 3 hour journey from Lake Tekapo, and the drive is significantly different from the others as the land is as flat as a pancake. No twisty roads or 35km/h corners here. One striking feature of the drive was the amount of reticulation systems in use on roadside farms - from sprinkler systems to huge industrial paddock-sized machines.
The city of Christchurch bears many scars from the February earthquakes, from buildings without roofs to churches that have only the roof left standing. The centre of the city is off-limits but there are many attractions to be seen. The botanic gardens are located next to the Canterbury museum and both are well worth visiting. Guided tours of the gardens are run regularly but you can grab a map and walk about at your leisure. The museum has some excellent Antarctic displays and there are many interactive exhibits including ones relating to fault lines and seismic activity. For real hands on frozen stuff you can't go to Christchurch without seeing the Antarctic Centre. Put on some shoe covers and an arctic jacket and you can experience a -25 degree snow blizzard straight from Scott's Antarctic base. You can sit in a 4D theatre (3D plus an interactive seat - watch out for the leopard seal slobber) and experience a quick 12 minute trip to the frozen continent, see inside a re-creation of an explorer's hut and watch a 17 minute movie of amazing images and film from various locations in Antarctica. The top attraction may be a ride in a Hagglund Antarctic vehicle. These extraordinary machines are rather like military Hummers in their toughness but can go just about anywhere on snow, ice or in water. They are amphibious and can withstand everything a blizzard can throw at them. The ride takes you over training ground conditions where you experience every possible road condition that you might face if you were in Antarctica, from turbulence as you navigate road ruts to fear as you drop down a 45 degree 'hill of terror'. You float across a pond and then climb up and over snow drifts. This is not a ride for the feint hearted or anyone with back or neck complaints, but gee whiz its fun.
New Zealand is a 6 hour airplane ride from Perth, but when you are surrounded by glaciers, mountains and impenetrable forest you feel as if you are on another planet. The language, minus a few key vowels, is the same. The roads, with a few give way differences, are the same. Food, while a little more expensive, is the same. The money, without a five cent piece, is the same. But the adventures you can have are so far from what we in Perth are used to it is an experience everyone should have.
Top Tips for travel in New Zealand
If you hire a car: Check the vehicle carefully before you drive away to ensure the marked dents and dings are noted on the rental agreement.
Obey the speed signs when cornering.
Be wary of the 'stand here for a photo' routine. The tour companies will ask you for $35 to $40 for their photo pack at the end of your tour.
Lane merges are not what you expect - New Zealand drivers actually can merge and it is usually the right lane that is required to merge.
Entrances to motorways in Auckland are on a light system - 2 cars every 4 seconds or so to allow for smooth flowing traffic. A countdown system is on pedestrian crossings at lights - 25 seconds before they turn red.
Auckland Skytower - coffee 180m above the city is great even if you have to wait half a day for it.
Petrol prices are a killer - $2.06+ per litre. Hire a hybrid car!
Traffic lights - turning right at the lights means you normally give way to cars turning left from the opposite way - but not in New Zealand. They give way to you. Most alarming when the cars behind you expect you to turn in front of the oncoming traffic!
Wine selection - if it's from Marlborough, it's good.
