Reviewer: Mike Gadd, Wino's
I’ve just come back from sunny, windless, clear skies, 30 degree days up north, to a hail storm and what feels relatively like sub zero temperatures.
Damn it’s cold.
Thus I’ve decided to put any white wine on hold for a bit and have a look at a decent red.
Solid reds always look better in cooler weather as the ambient temperature chills them out a bit and they are not so hot and porty as they may seem on a 34 degree day in the middle of summer.
The wine I’ve chosen from the editor’s line up is the WG Grace 2007 cabernet sauvignon from Heydon Estate.
To be honest I’ve been waiting for ages to have a look at this as I wrote up one a few years back and was mightily impressed.
The 2007 vintage was also one that many claim as one of their best, especially for cabernet and its blends.
It was warm and early and many wines were big and busty.
In the cricket context that surrounds most of George Heydon’s wines, this one is more of a swarthy David Boon.
That is, while it has a lot of character, some power and even some finesse, it is stout of heart and full bodied.
The only difference in character is that unlike Booney, this wine is not short.
It has a brilliant opening drive of dark black forrest cake and blackcurrants, squares up with spicy cedar oak, and faintly edges some light tobacco down to third man.
In the mouth it’s all front foot action and lustily smashes plum and dark chocolate over the bowler’s head for six.
The mid palate is more thoughtful, effortlessly gliding mocha and more dark fruit through the gaps.
It sticks around for a long time and finishes with a flurry of spice, chocolate powder and a standing ovation from the crowd.
I like this wine. It’s got everything that is good about Margaret River cabernet, times two.I will definitely feature this on the list when we reopen in a couple of weeks.
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