It might look more like a chemistry experiment than a way to make coffee, but Perth connoisseurs are queuing up to lay down up to $12 for a cup of syphon-brewed caffeine hit.

It is fiddly and requires time and precision, which is why it is not widely available in WA cafes, but fans of the syphon method - which originated in the 1830s - say it produces a cup unlike any other.

The secret, according to Ristretto cafe owner Emanuele Muratore, is not only in the method, but in the product itself. While some coffees are suited to espresso machines, those with high quality sugar and acidity, similar to good fruit, "shine" when put through a syphon, he said.

"It's all about understanding what coffee can be," he said. "You have to consider it like any other fresh produce and select what is in season." A lot of science goes into producing syphon coffee, from precise measurements and exact temperatures to timing to perfection when the coffee and water meet.

Even at up to $12 a cup, Mr Muratore said syphon coffee tended to be a "loss leader" in terms of high labour cost and the price of the raw ingredients, such as Esmeralda Geisha coffee from Panama, which costs over $100 per kilo.

"All the effort behind it is reflected in the pricing and so it's not unrealistic to pay $8 to $12 for a cup," Mr Muratore said.

Several other Perth venues intend to introduce alternative brewing methods by the end of the year and the WA Barista Academy is starting brewing courses for syphon coffee.