• Nigellissima *

TODAY, 8.30pm, ABC1

Dear Nigella, her shows have always been about grand production values and her own personal style, and rather less about the food itself. Anyone else still scarred by the grasshopper pie from years back? This new series, based on her love of Italy and of Italian food, is no different. Looks great, tastes OK. Here is a new kitchen, a slimmer Nigella and some brief shots of the good woman in Florence, reliving her adolescent moments as a chambermaid and a Florentine party girl. The food itself is so cobbled-together Italian you will probably finish the series happy to have watched it but with just a handful of recipes to try. One is tonight's potato chips, placed in cold oil and heated.